Memories of Chapa

We all have arrived at the village of Namche at 11200 feet. We had a beautiful morning on our acclimatization hike to 12500 feet. Everyone had there first view of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and several of the high peaks. I always feel small and insignificant, humbled to walk amongst these peaks.

Ama Dablam holds many memories for me. I spent 3 seasons on the peak with my head Sherpa Chapa. Chapa passed in August of 2007. To view Ama Dablam today from a distance sparked a landslide of emotion. I can feel him watching over me as he always did.

His son Gombu Sherpa is on this trip with me helping with the trekking clients. I have been passing stories to Gombu about his father and how great of a Sirdar(head Sherpa) he was. Today Gombu said to me "I will try to be a great Sirdar like my father".

One story that sticks out in my mind happened on Ama Dablam. I had hiked to camp 1 on Ama Dablam with Chapa and clients. We set up tents and Chapa went on his way back down to Base camp 3 hours away. As I crawled in my tent I realized I had forgotten my sleeping pad. It was going to be a cold night without a pad and 20 digree temperatures. I emptied my pack and spread out the climbing rope and settled in for a long uncomfortable night at 18000 feet.

At 8 pm in the cold evening I see a headlamp through the icy tent wall. Chapa pokes his head in and tosses my sleeping pad in. He had descended to Base Camp and ascended back to camp one when he noticed my mistake. He said "I go down now" and he was gone. I think he had traveled 11 hours that day just to keep me safe.

We went through climbing gear today and we are all packed to go. Everyone is healthy.

This will be my last entry until We get off the mountain around May 20th. Would love to hear from you.

April 27th A Guides Job

Arrived in Kathmandu on the 26th. When I left I had a suprise at the Sea Tac Airport. One of the clients pulled me aside and with a serious voice said "I have a problem". I thought, "we are at the airport so he must of forgotten his passport or ticket". In a low voice he hunches over and says "You need to give me a shot every 10 days." I was relieved that it was not the forgoten passport or ticket. No problem David. I ask "in the arm?". He gives me a blank face. I then realize I will have to give him an innoculation in his butt and wish he had forgoten his passport. I have done many things for clients but this one is beyond a guide duty. In trying to be a consumate guide I agree then turn to the other clients, "we will be having a card game every 10 days. The loser has to give David a shot in his ass. "

We arrived kathmandu and within 5 minutes the gate keeper of all expeditions called me on the phone. Elizabeth Hawley is a writer reporter who has been documenting every expedition coming to Nepal since the American expedition of 1963. She is a true legend and I always feel privilaged to sit and talk with her.

We depart for Lukla a small village with an even smaller landing strip. I always have felt that the landing in Lukla is as scary as some of the climbs. Lukla is the gateway to the Khumbu region (Everest region). We will then take two days to hike to Namche at 11200 feet. A rest day will be welcomed on the 30th, sleeping, eating, reading, card games, writing. On the first we continue our approach to Kyajo Ri via the Renjo La pass at 17300 feet.

Be well.

April 24,2010- Waking

  Sixth day of Transplant October 10th, 2005

Kyajo Ri

April 24th 6a.m., 2010.  I wake up this morning with the excitement of another expedition.  Waking is such a gift.  Just 3 years ago I was fighting for my life.  During the bone marrow transplant period I remember going to sleep and wondering if I would wake up in the morning.  Waking is such a gift.  At one point I had set a goal.  After my 

4th round of Rutaxan, a nasty last chance Chemotherapy, my physical strength was gone.  I returned home and set the goal of being able to walk to my mail box just 40 yards down the road.  My first journey out I made it to the bottom of my steps just 10 feet from the front door of my house.  The mailbox expedition would have to wait another day as I could just make it back up the steps and the 10 feet back to my sofa.  For 7 months I lay all day on the sofa.  Daily I would try for the mailbox.  At one point I encountered a white owl sitting above my Koi pond on one of my attempts.  At the time I didn’t know the significance but recently found that native Americans believe that death is near when a white owl presents itself.   It took me 14 days before I could make the 40 yards to the mail box.  

This morning I am thankful.  It has taken 4 years to recover but I can finally say I am healthier, stronger than I was before transplant.  Today I depart to climb a peak called Kyajo Ri.  A 20,390 foot peak west of Everest.  In 2002 I tried the first ascent of the peak on its east face.  We hope for a 6 day ascent from Base Camp on its south face.

I want to thank:  My friends( you know who you are) family (too many to list),  Dr. Linenberger, Dr. Keel,  Natalia Rudovsky, Anne and Charlie Diemer, Dr Steve Carter,  Kishor and Dawn Shrestha,  Bob and Georgia Conglton, Michael Brannon, Fabrizio Zangrilli.  Support from the gang at active.com, Nalgene , Steripen, North Face, and Black Diamond, Smith Sunglasses.

A special Thanks to my wife, Thank you, Thank you ,  Thank you

Thank you all for helping me wake this morning.  Waking is such a gift.