Karma Sonam and the Kora

"Karmaaaaa Sonaaaaam."........ A deep voice yelled out, the sound dissipated amongst ancient mountain walls.  The old man approaching me had on a red traditional Tibetan coat, red hat, and braided greying hair.  He walked with a cane and legs that were bowed from thousands of mountain miles in high Tibet.  He yelled out again  "Karmaaa Sonaaam" stretching the words as if introducing a rock star to stage.    His smile and eyes pierced me and any stone near by.

As he yelled the words Karma Sonam he would raise his cane to he chest and beat it proudly, deep thuds.  He walked directly toward me and stood a foot away, not a blink as he looked me in the eye.  Now in a calm, soft voice, "Karma Sonam".

His name was Karma Sonam.  A pilgrim on the Kora around holy Mt Kailash at age 72.  He carried nothing but a huge smile and cane.  He rubbed his knees indicating that they were hurting.  My wife and I sat him down next to the trail on a boulder,  to him a comfy lounge chair.  I could just imagine his life where the stars are his roof,  leaf and stone his bed.

  We communicated through our Tibetan Guide who had now arrived on the scene.  He smiled and repeated Tutse Che (not sure of spelling) thank you in Tibetan.  Before I departed he grabbed my elbow and placed his forehead against mine, the highest honor a Tibetan can share.  It means "I know your heart.  We walked on and left Karma Sonam. Looking back every so often I would smile and waive.  He would return with a "Karmaa Sonaaam".  I felt as if I was leaving my best friend. We had only known each other 10 maybe 15 minutes.  The power of open hearts and a people without fear.   One hour later we arrived at camp and kept looking to the trail to see if Karma Sonam would pass.  With a slow limping gait, I was sure he was down trail.

After getting on the trail early in the morning I looked back to see if my friend was coming.  No sign.  I turned with a big smile at the thought of his booming voice, smile, and bowed legs, inching up the trail.

Two hours into the walk I see a familiar shape, color, and movement. " No way! " I quickened my pace.  As I approached I yelled out to the figure 40 yards ahead......"Karmaaaa Sonaaam".  The old man turned and it was him.  I could not believe that he had somehow passed us.  He could only do so if he had been traveling all night.  With the stars as your roof,  I am sure he was right at home in the cold night.  Prayers on his breath.

September 28th continued

After shouldering the pack I had one more trick up my sleeve to help get this pilgrim over the pass.  I was going to save it for the last 1000 feet for a second psychological boost.  My friend was amazing.  She was hurting physically and emotionally but her attitude was upbeat.  She was getting the spiritual experience we all had come for.  I believe one of the greatest spiritual teachers is suffering, especially for those coming from the industrialize world with all our comforts and flip of the switch electricity.  Here there was no switches, no taxis, no heated shelter to turn to for a warm shower.  This pilgrim was having to deal with herself with nothing to fall back on but herself and she was doing an outstanding job.  Physically she was fading fast.  There were 4 of us now helping to cheer her on and physically push her on.  She would take 5 steps and then rest for 1 minute.  Just 5 minutes after taking her pack I stepped in front of her to offer my second and last trick to help her psych.  I told her to grab on to my ice tool loops on the back of my pack so  I could tow her up.  Three other pilgrims steadied her from the back and gently pushed.  In this fashion we soon found ourselves at one of the holiest sites in the world at 18600 feet.  She had made the pass, a happy calm beamed on her face.  I was anxious.  I knew we only had a certain amount of time to get out of this altitude.  Others in the group seemed happy and I was happy for them but every minute now for my friend was urgent and I wanted to start the descent and get her into thicker air.  After placing a photo of my deceased father at the pass and saying a few words through gasping sobs, tear blurred eyes, and quick photos, I let the others know we had to get this pilgrim out ..........down.  I think the others had no idea of her condition and seemed taken back at my impatience. I could understand their position, they were in Tibet at one of the holiest sites in the world.  I did not have time to explain my hurry.   Every second counts this high when someone is in the ataxia stage.   I just started hustling her down.  At a lower point after the pass the team assembled.  I sent them all ahead to set up camp.  It would be helpful for my friend and I to be able to get into camp and crawl into a tent.  Within minutes we were alone and dropping out of altitude.  This day we would be walking moving for 10 hours.  My friend was truly amazing, never complaining, never a grimace on her face, she just kept moving.