Four Winds Nepal Relief Part 4
Namche Bazaar sits at 11,286 feet. Hiking to it is not the easiest day one spends in the mountains. The trail gains 2600 feet from the valley floor. It can be the most difficult day on a 14 day adventure walking amongst the giant Himalaya. Going from 8500 feet to the elevation of Namche the blood loses 6 to 10% of its oxygen carrying capabilities as the air begins to thin.
Grueling yes! Worth it yes! Now as we begin to hike into the high country we are treated with a world of waterfalls. Because it is the rainy season we are seeing waterfalls that do not run during the regular trekking season. White ribbons of water dot vertical gorges every few hundred yards, the water tumbling to the valley floor on an extreme whitewater journey to the ocean. Seeing these in the off season absent of hundreds of other foreigners is quite a treat, however I have other things on my mind.
As we move higher and higher I am thinking about logistics for the following day. We had originally thought that bringing rice to the village of Khumjung was the best course of action. Plans were about to change again. After speaking with my close friends Urkin Sherpa and Tsedam Sherpa they advised otherwise. They both felt that everyone had enough food and that giving them money would provide a better footing in their tenuous situation. At the end of the conversation I had mixed feeling about this as I felt a huge responsibility to all of you who donated to this project to make sure that the donations were allocated in the best possible way.
On the trail my wife and I are experiencing the locals sans tourists. We have seen only 2 other foreigners. We notice the spark that usually accompanies a jovial “Namaste” is subdued, there is a preoccupation in their voice. The usual spring in their step is dulled. The earth quake is weighing heavy on the population. We see, hear, and feel pain in their spirits as we pass them on the trail. Because it is the rainy season and there are no tourist the available work is scarce adding to the hardship.
We take slow steps higher into thinning air. My thoughts are simple “Rice or Money?” “What is the best way to help?”
We pass a porter taking a break from carrying his load of 6 sheets of ply wood. He carries it on his back up the 2600 feet of gain. He has a control line tied to the top to keep his load from blowing him over if a wind rises. Imagine carrying 6 (4’x 6’) sheets of ply wood on your next day hike, roughly about 140 pounds. We see many porters carrying rebuilding supplies with loads up to 180 pounds. This day that I thought so difficult is Disney Land compared to what these porters are is doing. I hope that we can help their situation. I meet with Tsedam today in Namche and will talk to Urkin who is in Khumjung to work out logistics and the best way to help.
Thats where we were at on July 11th.