Greetings from 15600 feet.  We are at the village of Drag Nag perched just below the Cho La pass.  One of my beliefs is that the mountains will dictate your journey.  Not only has it been true on this trip but it was ever so true on the Tibet trip.  I think the itinerary changed daily on our Tibet trip.  One has to be flexible and have a total respect for the mountain.  Two days ago a young American woman that had befriended our group had this idea that she had to go to Everest Base Camp no matter what.  She was cocky and was going to do anything to get there.  She asked my opinion on her high altitude symptoms.  She was exhibiting a strong headache that had not gone away for 3 days.  Not the normal come and go high altitude headache.  I gave her my opinion "go down today, rest, and come back another day".  She was going to have none of that.  I told her my motto "the mountain will dictate your journey" as she walked off indignant.   The next morning we heard a rescue helicopter......   the young woman was on it.  I hope she is well and will return again to do her dream on the mountains schedule.  

Hello Everyone,
I am in the Khumbu on expedition and have a brief rest in Namche Bazaar.  I will have to continue blogs on the Tibet trip upon my return to Kathmandu but leave you with this:

Day 3 of our journey heading West across Tibet I saw the ultimate nomad.  We were 2 to 3 hours by car from any village.  The hills of Tibet stretched beyond the eye, endless.  The ultimate nomad caught my eye between horizon and road side, just a black speck in a sand sea.  Trotting with an air of confidence, a regal traveler with head held high, tail curled tight, and business to tend to.  This nomad is the formidable Tibetan Mastiff.  I would guess that the one I view now from the comfort of my car was 150 miles from the nearest Tibetan hovel.  The breed is known to travel 3 to 5 days without food and water.  They will fend off wolf to protect the nomadic family and fight to the death to keep the yak heard safe from snow leopard.

They also have a very lazy side.  I have watched the breed for 10 years or more and often you will see them lounging in the hot sun on a high rock.  I brought one from Nepal in 2004 and most of the day she lays and acts like we need to tend to her.  When it is time to protect the house from the odd raccoon she becomes fierce.  

Viewing this lone dog crossing the Tibetan plateau made me think about freedom, strength, and living without fear.  If you have a chance look up the breed do so. 

Tibet September 22nd

After crossing the boarder we met our Tibetan Liaison officer.  Pemba was very quiet at first but as the journey unfolded he unfolded.  We also met our drivers.  We would be driven by Land Cruisers across Tibet traveling from East to West, until we reached the foothills of Mt Kailash and the beginning of our pilgrimage by foot.  I had done this drive in 1998 and was excited to feel the vastness of Tibet.  This vastness permeates every cell.  It is hard to describe the feeling of freedom while crossing the 14200 foot Tibetan plateau.  I can only imagine that when we leave this world we pass into a place or feeling similar to the feeling and place that Tibet exudes.  It is a preview of the after life.   As we loaded up our truck that would carry our gear I was excited to float through this vastness.  I say float because space is so infinite that the physical is reduced.  I feel like a half grain of sand on a windy day at the beach, the winds and the undulating terrain pushing me at their whim, a floating light soul.

Though the landscape spreads into an infinite painting and the days of driving long, you want to keep your eyes open and fight sleep.  The colors, mountains, streams, high passes, huge puffy clouds, deep blue sky, and the characters on the road are wild and free.  Every driving day was at least 5 hours and sometime 9 but I and the others rarely shut our eyes for chance we would miss something in this special land.  I rarely blinked.  Most of the hours were passed in pure silence.  Three land cruisers,  4 people each car, rarely a word exchanged in the truck I traveled in.  The driver of my truck was a larger man light on his feet.  At one point he loaded a music CD and haunting Tibetan music came through the speakers.  He began to sing and his voice melted our hearts, I could feel the land and his experience in his voice.  His name was Pinejew (spelled phonetically) and he grew on all. 

The characters on the road I will write about in the next blog.  Imagine mad max meets Tibetan nomad.  Also photos coming soon.  Love to all. 

September 21st

Flexibility is key.  On September 15th I found out that China would be closing the Tibet borders on October 1st.  This gave us a brief 4 day window to change the itinerary drastically.  We (my agent and I) had worked on perfecting the original itinerary for a pilgrimage around Tibets Mt Kailash over the past 6 months.  Now to get in and out of Tibet before closure we would have to design an itinerary in 4 days.  What we came up with was a wild dash and outrageous adventure.  Everything would have to align perfectly without a hitch or we would miss our deadline out of Tibet.   I emailed clients just 3 days prior to departure from the states.  The memo was brief " Don't miss your flights".  Four of the clients would be arriving Kathmandu on September 20th around 2pm and we would be departing for Tibet early on September 21st.  The connection was crucial and providence stepped in again.  All 12 of us were on a bus heading toward the Tibet border on September 21st. 

I have had bus drivers in Nepal smoking hash while listening to Santana, drinking Chang ( local rice wine) and slurring their words, visiting with their good friend in the jump seat next to them with their eyes on the road only 50% of the time.  The great Himalayan gorges beckoning, tires just inches away from the great plunge. I was apprehensive as our bus pulled out in the early Kathmandu dust toward the North, and the cool mountain air.  I cannot remember our drivers name but he was the first driver I ever tipped.  He was awesome!  Careful around blind corners where others would Carine a speeding bus into possible mayhem.  One bus ride I actually jumped out the window as the driver tried to slip the bus past a landslide only wide enough to fit a small car.  Every passenger followed, spilling out the door ways, the emergency exit in the rear,  half opened windows, and the bus skidded to a dusty stop just inches before the plunge.  Today our driver was smooth, safe, and kind.  He probably listened to Santana in the safety of his home.  I tipped him good and everyone was thankful.   We arrived at the Tibet border in one piece and began the immigration process.  

We had arrived at Kodari the last village before crossing the friendship bridge into Tibet and the town of Zangmu.  The bridge brings back old memories.  It was here after finishing an expedition on Cho Oyu the 6th highest peak in the world that I had trouble exiting the country.  They would not let me leave an I could not figure out why.  I had planned to escape at night by rappelling down into the deep gorge that separates the borders and then crossing the river into Nepal.  Providence steps in again.  I ran into a Nepali friend who was doing business on the Tibet side and told him of my plan.  In his broken Nepali accent he said "  No no no maaat,  Chinese machine guns in valley".  I decide to pass on the idea of escaping via valley.

I called the American embassy in Chengdu and Nepal.  They contacted the Chinese officer in charge,  I was out 2 days later.

Now crossing back into Tibet I was nervous that they would refuse me entry.  As they checked our paper work mid bridge span I looked toward the Chinese guard with his crisp green uniform and white gloves holding a semi automatic weapon.  First thought, not good, as I walked toward the guard.  Everything actually went well after I passed.  We went into an immigration room and a kind Chinese officer greeted us and apologised for the wait. Relieved,  we entered Tibet on September 21st and were on our way to holy Mt Kailash. 

Tibet

I have just returned from guiding a trip to holy Mt Kailash in Tibet.  It is the practice of every Tibetan Bhuddist to walk around the holy mountain on pilgrimage.  Sounds easy but it is 35 miles all of which are above 15,400 feet,  the high point being 17,600 feet.  Over the next few days I will write about our journey and add photos.  There were 12 of us and 11 made the entire journey.  Because the Chinese government was going to close the border on October 1st our itinerary changed drastically.  We all were walking into the unknown for the most part.  It was interesting to be guiding a trip where the only thing I really had knowledge of was how to acclimatize the group,  keep them moving efficiently through the mountains, and keep them safe while remaining at altitude.  Everything else was out of my control and theirs and for the most part the group was good with that.  We all suffered bouts of anguish, frustration, cold, and exhaustion.  During the journey I was reminded that these along with the myriad of other emotional and physical suffering are an integral part of life.  In our culture we are constantly trying to deny suffering turning away or hiding from what is a natural occurance on this journey of life.  What I have found is that in the midst of suffering it hurts.  What is also very true of suffering is that you can count on plentiful gifts once on the other side.  The key is to understand that suffering too shall pass. I believe it is also key to understand the reality that we are all walking into the unknown.  No one is exempt or knows the future. If we believe we know what will happen tomorrow we are lost for sure.   We are all walking into the unknown.   Hope you enjoy the following stories of our Joy, suffering, and laughter and our journey into the unknown.  Matt

commit and flow

Early in 2011 I had decided to lead a trip to Tibet's holy Mt Kailash.  I had been hesitant for years but finally came to a place of commitment.   Here is what followed after a 100 percent commitment.    A distinctive voice rose above the mayhem of the money changer.  Number 30, Number 31, large bills and stacks of Indonesian Ruphiah cross hands above a high counter.  A red digital sign flashes  with the prices of foreign currency, the Aussie dollar = 9580 ruphia, the US dollar = 9150 rhupia.  Customers enter with hopes of the value of their money rising, a nervous Spaniard stokes his Euros in the corner, the digital screen ruling his attention.  Their are 5 Indonesians behind the desk taking in money, counting carefully, bright neon, a overhead fan, sweat from the Bali heat.  A distinctive voice draws my attention.  I see the profile of a gentleman standing at the counter and instantly recognized that he was Tibetan.  His voice, his stance, the bag he carried, the light around him.  I tap him on the arm and say "your Tibetan".  He looks at me first with an inquisitive stare then beaming smile.  He replies "you are Tibetan also" a huge beaming smile lights his face and warms my heart.  I reply "Yes" in a past life and we laugh like we had known each other for years.  My wife Dee is with me we are both surprised to find a Tibetan in the middle of Bali, at a money changer.  The odds of finding him here become even greater as he relays his story, and we soon realize this is not just a chance happening but message.  Crossing paths with this gentle Tibetan man in the middle of Bali at a random money changer, there are 1000s in Bali, at a certain time of day was surprising.  Running into this Tibetan who's  family owned all of the land that surrounds Mt Kailash was synchronistic.  As he shared his story he told of how, prior to the Chinese invasion he and his family were the stewards and owners of all the land around Mt Kailash and more.  His family was responsible for the monasterys in the area and taking care of 7000 monks.  Our mouths dropped. We told him of our upcoming trip to kailash.  "Well I will connect you with family in the area".  As we discussed and shared, the bustle of the money changing office faded. A deep connection ensued.  "Give me your hands".  Our hands went out and he took them, "this is a rare blessing and can be used only on special occassion".  He began a blessing right in the middle of the money changing office.  I love the sound of Tibetan mantras, I can feel them in my blood.  Receiving a blessing from a Tibetan of the Kailash area in the middle of a money changing office was profound. The money changing office faded and became a cocoon of light. Love poured through our hands and a tear pooled in the corner of my eye.  It was as if we were not even in the office, money kept changing hands, dollar signs kept flashing, no one seemed to know we were there and I felt as if we were not there.  Was this Tibetan and angel?   At the end of the prayer we placed our foreheads together, a sign of friendship in the here and now, and connection in path of the future.   We exchanged emails, he left out the door.  Dee and I smiled at each other, the experience left us breathless and light on our feet.  I wanted to see him as he walked away so stepped out the glass doors which he had just exited 20 seconds ago.  He was gone.  The message?  I think Johann Goethe summed it up in the following quote:  "Until one is committed there is hesitancy, the chance to draw back.  Concerning all acts of initiative there is one elementary truth, the ignorance of which kills countless ideas and splendid plans:  that the moment one definitely commits oneself, then Providence moves too."  I end with this:  Commit to your path  Peace.  Matt

Guiding Mt Everest? Client on Mt Everest?

Several of you have asked me to write my view point on "Guiding"  Mt Everest.  The topic has been scrutinized, shredded, and sensationalized and I understand its allure.  I have been asked to lead expeditions to Everest several times throughout my guiding career.  The answer always a quick "No, but I will take you to a peak where the climbing is beautiful, technically harder,  and we will be the only team on the mountain".   Two old school climbing values held within this answer:  1.  The aesthetic nature of the line.  2.  Having a wilderness experience.  Two out of several values that are the foundation of climbing ethics and why we climb.  These values and many others seem to be missing in the choice to climb Everest.

In 2008 I was leading a trip on the technical South West Ridge of Pumori.   Our team of 4 were sharing a Base Camp with Tim Rippel, a guide I highly respect, of "Peak Freaks" and Fabrizio Zangrilli an outstanding guide from Boulder Colorado and his client.  I believe there were a total of 14 people on the mountain.  In our group tent the discussion of "Guiding" Everest was a topic that sliced the thin air at our 17,300 foot Base Camp.   There were 14 of us on Pumori,  more beautiful than Everest ( it resembles a mini K2) and the route a climbers dream.  Steep ice,  a line that follows the south shoulder, distinct and sharp. That same season, just 1 hour and 45 minutes to the North, Everest Base Camp was hosting 800 people (according to the Sagamartha Pollution Control Committee), several generators, computers, boom boxes, and a russian spa.  We would walk from our star lit Base Camp to the edge of a moraine that formed a high shoulder.  Looking North to Everest BC we were shocked to see it lit up with electricity, we could here music, generators,  basically a small town formed on the glacier.  

I do not want to step on anyones toes!  I have friends that guide Everest,  a high respect for some of the guide services leading trips on Everest.  I am happy that the many Sherpa's have steady work.  The guides service and Sherpas hold years of experience and outstanding knowledge of the mountain.  Other toes that I may want to tweak are those of clients or people considering going on a guided climb of Mount Everest.  You have a responsibility! Just because you pay big money does not mean you are exempt from responsibility.  Also the guide service has a responsibility to educate you on your responsibility,  maybe this does not happen in a clear concise way.  It seems that there may be a break down in communication because guide services, rightly so, want to make money and clients want to climb Everest and have paid thousands to get there.  Because big money is involved on both sides I believe that important issues the guide services need to address often get left in a grey area and important issues that the client need to address get dumped into the same grey area, never discussed.  In short our goals and desires can often outweigh what is inherently important in choosing to Guide Everest or choosing to be guided on everest.  In 2003 I went to Everest BC for an acclimatization hike.  I witnessed a client learning to put on crampons.  It became obvious to me that the guide service was not responsible and the client was not responsible.  Climbing is like learning to fly a plane,  you just don't go from a flight simulator (the climbing gym) to sitting in the cockpit of a 747 ( Mt Everest).   You have years of steps and studies in between.  Learning the skills should not be taking place on Mt Everest.

Responsibility is just one of the hundreds of issues that surround the "Guiding Everest" debate and I only have these observation to offer to both guide service and client on responsibility.  I  have a set of guidelines that I have been using in the Himalaya.  In 31 seasons and 19 expeditions they have worked for my guide service "Four Winds Himalayan Guide Service" and client alike.  

Clients if you are choosing to climb Everest or anything above 21,000 ft.  you should take responsibility for the following:

There is no such thing as an easy mountain.  Climbing any mountain is dangerous and you could die.  No guide service can stop an avalanche, a snow storm, the 500 pound boulder bouncing down slope.  Any guide service that says "Thats an easy mountain"  you may want to be cautious of.  If you are in the climbing arena remember you could die.  You alone are making the choice of being in the climbing arena.  With this choice you must accept that you might die and that just because you are being guided you still could die to no fault of the guide service.  If you don't know the high risk involved in the climbing arena you probably have not spent enough time in the mountains to be on Mt Everest.

If you are choosing to climb in the high altitude arena it is your responsibility to be truthful about your experience.  If you are learning to put on a harness at BC then you should not be there.  If you have less than 5 years of alpine climbing and mountaineering experience you probably should not be there.

You should be proficient at using your mountain axe.  Self arrest, boot axe belay, pick positions, adze usage, all should be automatic.  If you don't know what these are you should not be on Everest. 

You should be 100% confident about rappelling and belaying.

You should be 100% confident/proficient with your crampon skills,  be comfortable climbing AI 3.  If you don't know this rating you should not be there.

You should be proficient with crevasse rescue.

You should be comfortable with setting up a tent in heavy storm conditions.

You should be familiar with stoves and be able to cook and boil water in near hurricane condition.

You should be proficient at rope travel and management.  You should at least know how to tie a figure Eight.  If you don't know what this is then you should not be there.

You should be comfortable and accept 100% that just because you are paying $7000 to $75,000 for an expedition in the Himalaya does not guarantee a summit. There are too many unpredictable variables. You are paying for a chance to summit.  If a guide turns you back or shuts down the expedition he is probably saving your life.  It is your responsibility before an expeditions to understand that you are just paying for a chance at reaching the summit.  A chance has been attained when you reach base camp,  anything after that is out of anyones control, a fringe bentefit,  you might not make it to Advanced Base Camp.

These are just some of the basics that are your responsibility as a client.  If you do not have these basic skills or experience then start with a smaller mountain like Island peak.

Guide Services:  If your clients for Everest fall outside of any of these guidelines then you have the responsibility of turning them down.  

You have the responsibility of letting them know what their responsibilities are.  Asking what there skills are and submitting a "climbing resume".  If your clients are learning to put on crampons at Base Camp of Everest many would say you are being irresponsible.

Leave all the crap at home.  Get rid of the comforts like generators and loud boom boxes (obvious reasons and a whole other topic).

Limit your group size.  I don't have a number but a client list of 18 or more seems extravagant.  I have heard of Guide services with 25 or more climbers.  Dollar wise it is awesome for you, totally understandable, but responsibility, safety, and the mountain experience suffers.  Think about others on the mountain.  A group of 7 to 12 is plenty.

Have clients carry their own gear.  Hardly anyone climbs everest any more except the Sherpas.  They carry gear, set up tents, fix rope, carry clients oxygen, make tea for clients etc.  Let clients do all this while keeping the Sherpas on board for back up.  Let the client climb the mountain, carry their gear, set up their own tents, cook their own tea and meals.  

If client and guide services can follow these simple guidelines I believe guiding Mt Everest would be a much safer, quieter, undertaking for client and guide service alike.  Clients who do not have the skill will not go to the mountain ( at this time) and Guide Services will attract climbers that have put in their time on smaller mountains and have the skill to climb the mountain without reducing Everest to her knees.   

In the end remember the 2 "old school" climbing ethics and choose your mountain accordingly.  The aesthetics of the line and the wilderness experience will define your climb not how high the mountain.

Other articles regarding this topic:  www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/may/30/everest-mountaineer-crowding-hobby-tragedy

Adventure dangerous?

Nirvana, heaven, dreamland

16,700 feet. The wind carries a chill, stirs tundra life, and carries on to the North across the Tibetan plateau. We are a group of 9 that has hiked to this point just 3 miles from the Tibetan frontier, the wild, wild, east. We are tired but inspired by this dream land. We are dirty but it makes us feel close to the earth, we are close to each other with the toil of altitude pressing us together. The beauty has pulled us on, deeper into the wild. Three of our porters have joined us. It is supposed to be their day off from carrying loads but they are pulled also. We reach the 5th holy lake of Gokyo. As if each on a treasure hunt, we disperse. I find myself alone ducking behind a boulder to escape the soft, cold wind. The South face of the Cho Oyu is eye blinding bright. The sun carries little warmth but behind the boulder out of the wind is a haven. Convection. I lay down and scan the slopes for Snow Leopard. This is where they would be, they are probably watching me. Here they are free to frolic, free of the hunter. This place is so freeing to the soul that it is a place one would not mind to walk. Walk any direction, and just keep walking, infinite, timeless, just keep walking.

Twenty minutes pass and the treasure hunters return to my haven behind the boulder. Treasures are worn on each of their faces, wide eyes, happy souls, the sparkle of freedom, the face of happiness. A few words are exchanged, trail food shared, and a quiet surrounds us, a veil of silence. Soon we are all horizontal, the heat from the stone sooths us, sleep.

I wake feeling as I had slept for a lifetime. We all woke at the same time with the same feeling. My first words were "what happened" ? All had the same question. We were baffled and over joyed at the place we had slept and woke. It was as if we were one body sharing the same sleep, and now awake, sharing a dream like state. The moments were perfect. This is nirvana, heaven the same. We were confused, questioning, one utters "are we awake". We all laugh at this wonderful "happening" that we all experience at the same time. Several breaths later we shoulder our packs to head down out of the clouds. The snow leapard stretches and lays down, probably watching our every step, content to stay in dreamland.

Expand your "uncomfortable zone"

I sat sipping tea gingerly daydreaming in a comfy coffee house in Kathmandu. Outside the window everyday life of Nepali people passed by. A man carrying 2 office chairs on his back, a bicycle outfitted with hand woven baskets as saddle bags, each basket bursting with chickens, as the rider dodges traffic, loud horns every 5 seconds, a beggar on crippled legs sits in the dirt.

"Can I get my coffee" the voice urgent and whiny draws me to the table next to me. An American woman is fuming. "I just cant wait any longer, it has been 10 minutes, please bring me my coffee now" Her voice is irritating and her lack of patience grating. She seemed way out of her comfort zone as if someone were stabbing her in the leg.

I glance back to the window. Outside the man with crippled legs sits in the dirt. He travels by crawling on his knees. The calluses on his knees thick like a elephants feet. He is smiling and asking passers by for money. He crawls on. Cars, exhaust, mud, trampling feet, and crippled legs, yet he smiles.

I look back to the woman. I have been where she is at, complaining, whining. I also have been where the man crawls by going through a bone marrow transplant and pushing my uncomfortable zone to wider margins in the high mountains.

When I start to complain or whine about my car not starting, the guy cutting me off in traffic, the rude woman at the phone company, I realize I am just spoiled and have too much comfort. I forget to use the perspective given me by going through pain and suffering in the high mountains and through transplant.

Expand your uncomfortable zone. Get uncomfortable for 5 minutes and realize that our comfort zone does not need to expand to the point where we are just locked in our homes all cozy, fat, and lazy. Our comfort zones do not need to permeate every aspect of our lives to the point that we dont feel life. Being uncomfortable is a good and necessary part of life. It allows us to be compassionate and appreciate what we have. Being able to widen your "uncomfortable" zone allows ease of happiness. Things that seem huge obstacles become simple as you widen your zone

Think about how you can get some discomfort in your life to keep in perspective what is truly out of your comfort zone. If not getting your coffee within 10 minutes of ordering upsets you, try walking on your knees to the nearest Starbucks.

October 18th success but no summit

It is the ultimate test of letting go, turning back, surrender. The summit is only 4 to 5 hours away. We carried our gear high as planned. We began to climb through the avalanche cone to 18000 feet, the curiousity of the rock section that split the snow ramp pulling us higher. We were not sure if the rock was steep, loose, or possible. At about 18100 feet a loud thud permiated the silence. I froze and the thud became louder, louder, louder. "Rooooockkk" I shouted once to Sabrina and Wesley just below me. I dont think it registered with them at first because they were out of sight and sound of the boulder bounding its way down slope. "Rooockkkk" a second intense punctuated shout. A rock the size of a large bowling ball flew eye level past me just 5 feet to my right heading directly for Wesley. He registered the shout instantly and waited till the last second to see which way the beast was bouncing. The boulder now 1 second from inpact with his body, Wesley side steps and it lands a few inches from his foot. It continues toward Sabrina who is safely out of the beasts path.

I took a quick look at the rock step and realized it was all loose rock, unprotectable, dangerous.
After the message from the meandering boulder, we decide to turn back. The route was just not in good shape. If there was more snow we would make the summit in 5 hours from this point.

We are all down and safe and the mountain will be there next year with a route safe to travel. Love to all. Matt

Camp I, October 16th

Camp one at 17,200 feet. Quite a place. We are all doing well the summit only 2600 feet above. Our plan was to go for the summit in the morning of the 17th. We have decided to carry all our hardware to the avalanche cone and the beginning of the steep climbing, come back and rest for the day. Wesley arrived late and has acclimatized well in a short period of time but we decided to give him one more days rest and acclimatization.

From our "camp I" we have beautiful views East to Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse South, and hundreds of more obscure peaks. Like being on the moon, the landscape is desolate, quiet, empty yet full of wonder and intense beauty.

Going for the summit on the 18th if all goes well.

Figure Four Packs

Looking for the perfect pack for alpine climbs? I used a pack by a company called Figure Four and found it to be the best pack I have ever owned. The size is perfect 42 Liters. The weight is unbeatable at 1 pound 5 ounces. It carries like it is part of your body. Look into "Figure Four" and ask for Steve.

October 15th,11

On our way to establish a camp one at 17200 feet on the south side of Machermo peak. We are in the village at a lodge called Namgyal Lodge, named after its Tibetan owner. My friend Fabrizio and his client have just came down from their base camp below the East Face of Kyajo Ri.

Do you believe in the Yeti? I ask because Fabrizio and his client Heather were deep asleep when a growl, described by both as sounding like an extremely large Bear, shattered the night. The echos reverberated in the remote valley. They both tucked into their sleeping bag and acted as they did not hear a thing. Just extremely unexplainable.

Oddly enough in 2002 I was attempting the first ascent of Kyajo Ri and had a Base Camp almost where Fabrizio and Heather had theirs. I had 2 clients from Switzerland join us on the climb. Because the peak was unclimbed we were all over the mountain trying to find the path of least resistance on a peak that was near vertical. The couple from Switzerland left in the morning excited to be in a valley where none had gone, infinite space and not a print. When they returned they had photos of foot prints. Not boot, not human, but definitely prints.

We are excited to be heading to camp one. Maybe the Yeti will pay us a visit. Matt Fioretti

3am

Woke at 3am. We are all at the village of Gokyo. We step outside into frigid, crisp air, a billion stars ablaze. I and 5 trekkers on our way to see sunrise behind Mt Everest, Chomolongma, mother goddess of the world. It was a hard trek for some but all pushed on to their high points, opening new boundaries within and pushing thresholds. The gold light moving ever so slowly finally peaks behind everest, tears flow easily. We are all well and will be walking toward Tibet tomorrow. I am acclimatizing well for the climb on Pharilapche and will be excited to move to camp one as we all head back down valley in 2 days. Love to all. matt Fioretti

good friends

This is a very rare and auspicious climbing season in the Himalaya. Two of my close friends and brothers from past lives are here. Not only here, but one of them Fabrizio Zangrilli will be on the same route on Pharilapche with his client. Also Chad Kellog may be approaching on the trek we are on. So happy to see friends in the middle of the Himalaya.

Dont believe in past lives? Well I was a yak herder with 2 Tibetan Mastiffs in my past life. It is often that I make a yak herder on the trail bust up with laughter as I yell out the Tibetan commands "Cha, whoaaa. The herder looks with bewilderment. Often a herder will reply "good, good". His yaks responding, their ears twitching from the new unfamiliar voice.

base camp

I have never been to a more powerful beautiful Base Camp. Wesley McCain, Sabrina Oesterle, Singi Lama and (matt fioretti) are attempting a route on a peak called Pharilapche. The approach to Base Camp is like something out of "The Lion, Witch, and Wardrobe" cascading water falls, red stone ledges polished smooth, Boulders the size of houses sitting in the middle of a green patch of grass, you feel the yeti is near or a snow leopard watching from on high. Four trekkers joined us on the approach and all of us were humbled.

Base camp was pitched at 16200 feet, a perch overlooking a broad tundra valley.

In 3 days we will move to camp one, more remote, deeply other worldly, vast. Camp one, we hope, will be at 17400. This will leave us with a final push of 2600 feet.

Thinking of all of you. Matt

6 a.m. Puja

We all arrived in Namche Bazaar at 11,280 feet. Not very high but the air thin with the lack of acclimatization. Early on we visited the Monastery next to our guest house. The lama was just closing his doors but invited us in. We sat and he smiled the jovial smile that all older monks have, warmth, wisdom, and open heart. We did not want to keep him long and began to walk out. I asked what time were prayer services tomorrow. He looked at me and said "come, come, 6am.

In the morning it is hard to get out of the warmth of your sleeping bag. A cacoon stuper. The prayer services called and soon all 6 of us were walking the rocky trail in front of the Monastery. At the entry the Lama was waiting and waved us in.

We entered the old monastary and sat in front of the Buddha and Tara on old Tibetan carpets. He began instantly no pause, a sing song mantra. After 40 minutes he waved us over. He stayed in the lotus position and tied a red blessed string around our neck and touch us forehead to forehead. We bowed before him humbly. We are now ready to continue our journey and climb. Hope you are all well.

Water

Squeek, slosh, squeek, slosh.  I woke at 3 am in Kathmandu to this sound.  It started at 3am and went until 5:30am.  As the gold  light of early morning broke into darkness I could see out my window to the source of the sound.  There was a man pumping water into old buckets encrusted with stains and use.  The center back of his shirt wet with sweat, shirt untucked and ragged. 

In my 5th floor hotel room I pulled my self from the window and wondered what it would be like if I still had to pump water from a well in my back yard by hand.  The man had pumped 2.5 hours and filled several containers so he and his wife could cook, shower, wash clothes, and have drinking water for his 2 kids.  I walked into the bathroom, turned a knob, and hot water gushed.

We are in Kathmandu Nepal.  Everyone has arrived.  We fly to Lukla tomorrow the trail head for our trek and climbing expedition.  Welcome to Nepal.  Hope you follow us as we climb the South and North side of Pharilapche (aka Machermo).

2012 season Mt Kailash Tibet

Hello Friends, Adventures, couch potatoes,
I depart in 3 days for my 30th season in the Himalaya. It is an exciting season with a full trip of outstanding people. We start with a trek to the Holy Lakes of Gokyo. A dip in one of these lakes at 15,400 erases the sins of a lifetime. So far I, nor any client has dipped in the 3rd lake at Gokyo village, sinners.

I am very excited about a new pack made by a company called Figure 4. Alpinist, this is the pack you have been looking for, 42L and weighs only 1 pound 7oz. Durable, light, comfortable. Thank you Steve at Figure 4. More on this later.

At the end of this trip we will head west with a small group of climbers to attempt 20280 foot Pachermo. Joining us is Danaru Sherpa who has summitted Everest 7 times. After Pachermo my climbing partner Wesley McCaine and I will attempt a new route on Pharilapche.

The reason I am writing today though is to let you know about a special pilgrimage "Four Winds" will be offering in September of 2012. We will be joining pilgrims from around the world to do the circumambulation of Tibet's holy Mt Kailash. Hiking from Western Nepal over the crest of the Himalaya to the Tibetan Plateau is arduous, tiring, challenging, one can feel broken. The rewards, however, are priceless. Tibetan Buddhist must do the 3 day journey around Kailash once in a lifetime as part of their practice. Join us on pilgrimage in September 2012. Embrace transformation.