Friendly Chinese Soldier

We were driven from the main paved road to a dirt road strewn with garbage.  At the next turn we entered a gravel parking lot surrounded by a high wall.  We were in the back of a run down administrative building.  I was nervous.  We were at the last village of Toklakot before crossing the border back into Western Nepal.  We had driven South from Mt Kailash and now were on the verge of entering remote Western Nepal and the more remote Limi Valley.  The high walls that now surrounded us reminded me of the kind that an execution squad lines prisoners against.  Not a soul in the parking lot or building.  Just our 3 land rovers parked side by side.  I cannot remember if we were told to stay in our vehicles but for some reason all 12 of us remained inside.   Minutes passed I became nervous.  Why  were we driven to this remote location?

 I was nervous of the Chinese military.  Early in the trip a Jeep had pulled up to our base camp with a rush of dust and urgency.  Four men exited the vehicle, 3 with military camouflage and one in civilian dress.  Two of them had cameras with huge zoom lenses and even though they stopped 15 feet from our tent they were right in our face.  I approached friendly with an open hand as the 2 with the cameras fired away a flurry of 20 to 30 shots.  One shook hands while the others were searching our surroundings with wondering eyes and lenses, looking in our tents and cameras clicking.  I asked there names and asked if I could take there photo.  I really did not want there photo but was curious how they would react.  They all said a strict "NO" to my offer of a photograph, smiled jumped in the jeep and quickly drove off.

Now in the back of a seemingly abandoned administrative building surrounded by high walls thoughts of the four curious military men flowed through my mind.  What would be my last request as they lined us up?  Before anyone arrived I searched for possible exit strategies.  Then minutes later a Chinese soldier arrived with an attache case cupped in hands clad in white gloves.  He rushed toward the glass doors of the empty building and with a friendly nervous smile waved us in.  His movements were stiff and nervous like.  Within seconds 3 other soldiers appeared from within the building entering from a dark hallway.  They inspected our baggage in an x-ray machine and we were on our way.  Obviously I have been watching to many hollywood movies.

The nervous soldier with the white gloves sat in the front seat of one of our land rovers and escorted us to the border.  When the vehicles came to a stop we were at the end of a gravel road.  Nothing but dust, stone, and a raging river.  We started to unpack the vehicles and I stood next to the soldier who cupped the attache case and nervously rubbed his white gloves together.  I asked his name and began a conversation.  During the course of which I realized that this Chinese soldier was as nervous as I.  It is funny how Media from both my American media and his Chinese Media had us both nervous about each other.  As I spoke with this gentleman I wondered where or how my thoughts had been formed and now, how those thoughts were so untrue as far as the individual standing in front of me.

I introduced him to my wife and he smiled and said "I am sorry but I am little nervous".  We all laughed and said it is all OK.  Apparently he had not been around many Americans and he was nervous about speaking English well.  Just as I was nervous about him because of Media influence he must have been nervous about us because of his media influence.  After introducing my wife I asked if he was married or had a girl friend.  He said no and in a poetic Rumi deliverance said "Love brakes the heart, painful, very painful.  The conversation went on for a few minutes and just as I would remember the old Tibetan pilgrim on the Kailash Kora I would remember this Chinese soldier with his friendly open heart.  At the end of the conversation he told the group that it was his pleasure to meet us all.  He opened the attache which he had been carrying diligently since leaving the administration building.  The contents were all of our passports.  He went through the names and handed us each our passport with a gentle bow.

Shisha Pangma Expediton 2014

Hello Climbers,
If you ever have wanted to climb an 8000 meter peak here is your chance.  We will be leading a trip to Shishapangma the 14th highest peak in the world.  Email us today.  

book excerpt

 I went through 5 years of fighting for my life.  You can read my profile for a brief description of the ordeal by scrolling down.  As some of you know i am writing an inspirational book.  Following is an unedited excerpt from Chapter 4 of my book titled "Between the Summit and Grave".  I hope to finish the book within the year and have started a book list.  If you would like to purchase the book when finished please email me at fourwindsexpeditions@gmail.com  

I will return to the Tibet trip in a week or so.  Stay tuned and enjoy.  Matt

My trip to Thailand rejuvenated my body slightly but elevated my mind to a new level.  

I was slated to start a regimen of ATG.  It is an antibody grown in a horse.  With this 10 round regimen over 10 days 6 hours a day I took the Japanese zen saying to heart.  “Have a cup of Tea”  The idea is that  you sit down and take a moment with yourself in hopes that in those moment you come to know your mind.  It is an invitation to discover the universal truth within ourselves, a moment of awareness,  it is like the act of sitting and experiencing enlightenment.  

It was a new year 2005, January, 5 months from diagnosis.  I would be entering the (hospital name) for 10 days to start my therapy.  The idea is that the antibody grown in a horse would attack the bad cells that were attacking my bone marrow.  A kind of suppression of bad cells to give breathing room for my marrow to begin production.  Side effects of the 10 day regimen are described as follows:

Possible kidney damage or failure

Damage to vision and possible loss of sight

Severe fever

Mouth thrush

Vomiting

Dizziness

The list goes on but I am emotional to go back there and put it down on this page.  I can remember Doctor white and many nurses trying to make joke of the experience.  In Dr. Whites words “ Matt this therapy has shown results.  At the end you are going to feel like a dump truck has run over you, but we have a good chance of spontaneous regeneration”  I had a good rapport with Dr.  White and I am sure he could not have explained the experience to other patience using quite the same words.  I laughed and told him that I used to love dump trucks as a kid and maybe I can re-spark that love.  We laughed hard and the nurse, in the middle of the laughter, asked if I was ready.  A quiet filled the room.  I thought for a few moments, of my life,  where I was at.  Chapa’s words “Life takes you” filtered through my wavering mind.  I looked over at the IV pump machine that would administer the ATG.  Five to 6 other bags of various medications hung. Cyclosporin to suppress my old immune system,  prednizone to encourage red blood cell production, and several others.  I already felt like a dump truck ran over me from being on these meds for the past 4 months........ “I’m ready."  

The nurse began with taking my vitals.  The therapy was so intense on the body that my vitals would be taken every 2 hours 24 hours a day for the entire course of therapy.  After taking my vitals another nurse entered the room and they both began dressing in protective clothing and gloves.  At this point I had not had any Chemotherapy but soon would find out that this protective clothing is donned each time a regimen would be administered.  It is ominous to watch.  Imagine  two nurses dressed in a kind of HASMAT (hazardous material) suit handling a plastic bag of medicine like it would kill them if they came into contact.  Now imagine them, masked, rubber gloved, smocked,  hooking it up to a pump which is connected by tube directly to your blood supply, starting the pump, and flooding your blood with such a concoction.  It would be an occurrence that I would grow accustomed to in the following years but today it was new and startling.  My mind pattern:  “This stuff must be horrible,  why do they need to dress like that,  this stuff is going inside of me, death,  bring it on, cute nurses, I must look like shit,  I will look like shit, can I make this,  medicine looks like vodka, no color, pure,  ah it will be ok, pure clean, is this the right medication, cute nurses?  All this in a thought that lasted a second.  

The nurses approached.  They began a protocol that would be common place throughout my ordeal.  One nurse read off my name, age, birth date, dosage and the other nurse would concur.  I would answer yes or no if I was indeed Matt Fioretti and I was indeed 38 years old.  At the time of writing this I am overwhelmed with emotion.  I was 38 years old when diagnosed with an illness that could kill me, I pause to ponder.  

When all is checked the nurses sign off.  One nurse hangs a final bag on the IV pole.  Punches some numbers in and the red digital numbers bounce on the screen.  She mumbles to remind herself of the flow rate.  The pump jumps to life, a sound and rythym that I would be comforted by in the years to come.  The clear fluid resembling Vodka flowed down the clear tube and neared my vain.  My last thought pattern:  Shit, I wish that was vodka.  

Karma Sonam and the Kora

"Karmaaaaa Sonaaaaam."........ A deep voice yelled out, the sound dissipated amongst ancient mountain walls.  The old man approaching me had on a red traditional Tibetan coat, red hat, and braided greying hair.  He walked with a cane and legs that were bowed from thousands of mountain miles in high Tibet.  He yelled out again  "Karmaaa Sonaaam" stretching the words as if introducing a rock star to stage.    His smile and eyes pierced me and any stone near by.

As he yelled the words Karma Sonam he would raise his cane to he chest and beat it proudly, deep thuds.  He walked directly toward me and stood a foot away, not a blink as he looked me in the eye.  Now in a calm, soft voice, "Karma Sonam".

His name was Karma Sonam.  A pilgrim on the Kora around holy Mt Kailash at age 72.  He carried nothing but a huge smile and cane.  He rubbed his knees indicating that they were hurting.  My wife and I sat him down next to the trail on a boulder,  to him a comfy lounge chair.  I could just imagine his life where the stars are his roof,  leaf and stone his bed.

  We communicated through our Tibetan Guide who had now arrived on the scene.  He smiled and repeated Tutse Che (not sure of spelling) thank you in Tibetan.  Before I departed he grabbed my elbow and placed his forehead against mine, the highest honor a Tibetan can share.  It means "I know your heart.  We walked on and left Karma Sonam. Looking back every so often I would smile and waive.  He would return with a "Karmaa Sonaaam".  I felt as if I was leaving my best friend. We had only known each other 10 maybe 15 minutes.  The power of open hearts and a people without fear.   One hour later we arrived at camp and kept looking to the trail to see if Karma Sonam would pass.  With a slow limping gait, I was sure he was down trail.

After getting on the trail early in the morning I looked back to see if my friend was coming.  No sign.  I turned with a big smile at the thought of his booming voice, smile, and bowed legs, inching up the trail.

Two hours into the walk I see a familiar shape, color, and movement. " No way! " I quickened my pace.  As I approached I yelled out to the figure 40 yards ahead......"Karmaaaa Sonaaam".  The old man turned and it was him.  I could not believe that he had somehow passed us.  He could only do so if he had been traveling all night.  With the stars as your roof,  I am sure he was right at home in the cold night.  Prayers on his breath.

September 28th continued

After shouldering the pack I had one more trick up my sleeve to help get this pilgrim over the pass.  I was going to save it for the last 1000 feet for a second psychological boost.  My friend was amazing.  She was hurting physically and emotionally but her attitude was upbeat.  She was getting the spiritual experience we all had come for.  I believe one of the greatest spiritual teachers is suffering, especially for those coming from the industrialize world with all our comforts and flip of the switch electricity.  Here there was no switches, no taxis, no heated shelter to turn to for a warm shower.  This pilgrim was having to deal with herself with nothing to fall back on but herself and she was doing an outstanding job.  Physically she was fading fast.  There were 4 of us now helping to cheer her on and physically push her on.  She would take 5 steps and then rest for 1 minute.  Just 5 minutes after taking her pack I stepped in front of her to offer my second and last trick to help her psych.  I told her to grab on to my ice tool loops on the back of my pack so  I could tow her up.  Three other pilgrims steadied her from the back and gently pushed.  In this fashion we soon found ourselves at one of the holiest sites in the world at 18600 feet.  She had made the pass, a happy calm beamed on her face.  I was anxious.  I knew we only had a certain amount of time to get out of this altitude.  Others in the group seemed happy and I was happy for them but every minute now for my friend was urgent and I wanted to start the descent and get her into thicker air.  After placing a photo of my deceased father at the pass and saying a few words through gasping sobs, tear blurred eyes, and quick photos, I let the others know we had to get this pilgrim out ..........down.  I think the others had no idea of her condition and seemed taken back at my impatience. I could understand their position, they were in Tibet at one of the holiest sites in the world.  I did not have time to explain my hurry.   Every second counts this high when someone is in the ataxia stage.   I just started hustling her down.  At a lower point after the pass the team assembled.  I sent them all ahead to set up camp.  It would be helpful for my friend and I to be able to get into camp and crawl into a tent.  Within minutes we were alone and dropping out of altitude.  This day we would be walking moving for 10 hours.  My friend was truly amazing, never complaining, never a grimace on her face, she just kept moving.

September 28th

Morning 6:30am, tents broken down and gear being loaded on Yaks.  We circled up so I could brief everyone.  The first thing I said in that brief was "Lets stick together, things can spin out of control real quick above 17,000 feet".  As I looked face to face I could see there were a few of us that were going to have a difficult day but I knew that everyone gathered in front of me could do it.  I could see one pilgrim especially, a close friend of mine,  had the beginning of facial edema.  The body not functioning correctly with the handling of fluids.  As I spoke I glanced at her and was making a decision in my head if I should turn her around.  There are parts of a guides job that are sometimes solitary, things that cannot be shared with client.   In our solitary life on a trip at altitude we are watching everything, shoe laces, speaking patterns, gait, clothing choice, respiration, eye dilation, balance, wind changes, water intake,  temperature fluxuations, cloud patterns,  appetite, possibilities of rock fall, who's passing in our group and where, others outside of our group passing, trail conditions, where to take brakes, cognition, the list goes on and on and is unbeknown to the client.  I did not want to tell my friend about her facial edema, it would just add to her stress.  After asking how everyone was feeling I could see that the pilgrim with the beginning of facial edema responded well and in that moment I decided she could do it.  At the same time also planning an escape plan which would entail getting her down if she could not make the pass and letting those who could make it go over the pass.  Some how we would have to meet on the other side of the mountain.  I hoped deep down that she would make it.

We were on our way to one of the holiest sites in the world the "Dolma La" pass at 18678 ft.  The trail from camp started off with a gentle rise and within 10 minutes people who were hurting started falling behind.  The day went on like this with part of our group 20 to 30 minutes in front of a second slower group.  Everyone was excited.  For a guide there is a fine line between being excited for everyone and getting everyone over and out of altitude before someone grinds to a halt.  On this day,  as time passed and the air grew thinner with every step,  I was a little worried that we were losing our team and becoming a broken group of individuals, a behavior that is common at altitude.  I have seen it before where the higher one goes the focus becomes self centered.

As we went higher I could see my friend was having a harder time controlling her feet.  Her coordination slipping.  I decided to hang back to keep an eye on the group from the rear to watch for anomalies.  As my friend started to slow so did her cognition.  I would ask her questions and sometimes it would take her 30 to 40 seconds to answer.  As her situation became worse a beautiful thing happened.  Three other pilgrims began to help.  It took some of the stress of my job off my back and felt a bit better about the situation.  I could now watch the groups progress and still keep a tight focus on a deteriorating pilgrim.

About 2 hours from the pass I asked to carry my friends pack.  I waited as long as possible because I knew it would be a big psychological support to have that pack off her back.  "There is the pass,  you can see it, you can make it".  Shouldering her pack I could see she was happy and gained a burst of energy.  The pass did not look far but according to my watch we still had 1800 feet to gain.  Here balance waning and breaks every 10 steps, part of me grappled with the turn around point.  The point where it is to late to turn back or to early to stop.  It is the hardest part of a guides job because you want the client to be successful but not at the cost of life.

Stay tuned.

September 28th

5am.  Cold with a light wind brushing over an ice covered tent.  I got out of my bag to wake everyone.  It was about 25 degrees.  More stars than night filled the sky.  When I finally donned my cold weather gear and crawled out of the tent the North face was booming upright with a silver hue.  I walked tent to tent "time to get up".   Excited voices, the rustling of clothes, tired replies, stoves hissing.  It was the day we would go over the highest and holiest pass on the Kailash Kora.  For some it would be the hardest day of their life physically.  Stay tuned.

September 27th second day of Kora

On day one September 26th, we had hiked 5 hours along the east face of Kailash.  It was astonishing how the trail was situated right at the base. The mountain rising from rubble to sky.  We worked our way around to the North face all the while kailash demanding respect.  I mentioned in a earlier blog that some pilgrims will prostrate around the whole mountain.  I was curious to see such a person.  This second day we were above 16,000 feet.  When we had arrived at camp the day before no one had the energy to walk across the river to the Diraphug Monastery,  the effects of altitude.  There was a wind that moved through every layer of clothing and through the body.   Respiration was heavy with the thin air and rigors of setting up 7 tents.  Our team worked well and soon we were tucked in for the evening, water boiling, snacks in hand, a darkening blue sky.  When we woke it was cold with a blanket of ice covering our tents.  If you have ever spent time in an icy tent you know the mornings are the toughest. Going from warm lofty down sleeping bag to the 33 degree weather outside is a battle of will.  Sometimes I will sleep in all my clothes just so they stay warm.  Putting on a cold pair of pants that you have been wearing for the past 7 days (with out a wash) can be daunting.  Someone had asked me on this day what was the longest I had gone without a shower and wearing the same clothes.  I answered with a smile "you don't want to know"  followed by quietly spoken "45 days".  Those of you climbing Shishapangma  (14th highest mountain in the world) with Four Winds in 2014 know what your in for.

We were on the trail early.  An hour into the hike I noticed 2 pilgrims rising and crouching then laying on the ground.  They were prostrating around Kailash.  As I approached I took the photos below.  I could feel there devotion.  I heard through the grape vine that it had taken this couple 5 days to do what we did in 5 hours.  It would take roughly 21 days to prostrate around Kailash.  Climbing Everest is like Disney Land compared to prostrating around Kailash.  As I approached the couple I was expecting tired haggard faces.  Eyes heavy and heart dusty.  I smiled at the woman as she turned my way.  She gave back a big smile with sparkling eyes and a hearty Tashidelek ( the Tibetan greeting).  She turned back to the trail in front and began her next prostration.

                            Tibetan Men starting the Kora

The Dream. Sept 26th

Beginning of the dream.  We were approaching Kailash and pilgrims began to appear.  Groups of Tibetans walking and laughing, some with a serious tone, others had young children on their back sleeping, young teenagers, elderly with canes,  women hand in hand, all gathered to walk the 36.5 mile kora on the slopes of Kailash.   We wanted to get out of the car.  I could see the trail and pilgrims but we were driving to meet our gear truck and the yaks that would be carrying our gear.  A group of Tibetans in traditional long coats,  one sleeve worn off the shoulder,  and felt hats caught my eye.   "Stop" I pointed with a rushed manner.  Our driver pulled over with a questioning look.  I said nothing and exited the vehicle before it came to a stop.  We were all excited.  Packs were pulled from the rear of the land cruiser, jackets put on,  laces adjusted, hats donned, cameras at the ready, smiles, big smiles.  We were psyched!  Months and Months of planning, flights, hotel arrangements, permits, VISA, embassy visits and here we stood.  Just 8 days before the journey there were rumors that the Chinese Government was going to close the border.  At this point there were 12 of us who had investments emotionally and financially so I ignored the rumors.  At 5 days before departure the rumor was becoming more of a reality and I decided to change the whole itinerary drastically.  With the help of Hira my agent in Kathmandu we completely revamped the itinerary so we could exit Tibet by October 1st, the rumored date of the border closure.  Regardless of all the obstacles we had arrived and now were walking.  At 15600 feet it took us a few minutes to get our trail legs back.  Kailash loomed above its shape emanating grace.  About 20 minutes into our pilgrimage we came to the yak loading area.  Commotion and dust surrounded our gear truck.  As I approached Govinda one of our cooks approached and started asking me which bags go.  "This one....... This one?......... This one?"  Our yak drivers,  2 Tibetan woman in beautiful bright pink traditional dress, looked on confused.  There were 12 duffle bags and tons of kitchen gear and tents.  We only had 6 yaks.  Each yak could take 2 duffles.  We could not take it all.  I started rifling through the kitchen gear.  I looked at Govinda and DB who was in the back of the truck unloading more gear.  "Leave it,  we leave all kitchen gear,  kitchen tent, utensils, stoves, karosene, leave it"  The cooks looked at me like I was crazy.  I continued.  "Govinda,  DB, you go as pilgrims this trip, no cooking."   They looked at me surprised.  Never have they done the Kora without having to work.  They had beaming smiles.  I had planned to go light for the kora.  We all would cook in our own tents and everyone packed dry food.  The cooks had not been told and now they were on the kora for the first time as pilgrims.  They excitedly threw all the kitchen gear into the back of the truck.  Yaks were loaded and last minute arrangements made for the truck to meet us on the other side of the mountain.   We posed for a group photo turned and began the Kora.  My assistant guide, Yubach, yelling from the back of the pack, "Every body readyyyyyyyyyy?".

Rush Hour Tibet

On the way to Kailash there were several "rush hour" periods where traffic was backed up.  Below is a photo of a typical rush hour.

Pictured below..... the Tibetan Porsche.  

September 25th - Rest Day?

This was our beautiful camp next to holy lake Manasarovar.  In the distance you can see Mt Kaiash.  On this day we would have a rest day.  The words "Rest Day" take on a new meaning at altitude.  Your body automatically adjust your respiration so you have more oxygen in your blood stream.  For example if at sea level you have a resting heart rate of 65 your heart rate at altitude will raise anywhere between 15 and 30 beats a minute at rest.  It is like you are on a slow jog 24 hours a day.  On most trips I lose anywhere from 5 to 12 pounds in 19 days.  This trip I lost 9 pounds.

Not only is your heart rate elevated but on rest days we have to adhere to an acclimatization regimen which consist of climbing high and sleeping low.  The photo below is on one of our "Rest Days".  We hiked 1000 feet above camp and then came back to camp to sleep low.  In this process our bodies start to acclimatize to the rarefied air.  Rest days at altitude?  Imagine a slow jog 24 hours a day 7 days a week for 15 days.

September 24th

Tibetan pilgrims would amaze me daily on this journey.  The photo above shows what they carry.  I had a chance to speak with the 3 pilgrims in the photo above.

 Looking toward the Chugu Monastery I saw in the distance pilgrims huddled around a small fire.  I believe they had carried small pieces of kindling as there is no wood to be found.   Though they probably needed every bit of food and drink they carried for their journey they were quick to offer tea. They had no shelter and their travel kit consisted of a small burlap sack (pictured left) and a white woven plastic sack( pictured middle), thats it.  As I approached, their smiles warmed me.   It was a stark contrast to our camp here next to the holy lake.  We had state of the art 4 season tents,  down sleeping bags rated to 15 degrees or warmer, and a truck to carry our gear and food.  Still we suffered and believe it is just a testament to how soft our spirits are becoming with all the material we have.  Really,  I probably would not last 3 days with what the Tibetans in this photo carried, yet there they were big smiles and laughter booming as they as they walked past our cozy lake camp.  I found out that they had already walked 5 days.  At this point I would guess they had another 5 days to make it around Kailash, then 5 days home.  All done with a burlap sack and a white woven plastic sack.   What were the contents?   I believe....... mostly strong, wild spirits.





This is a photo of the North side of Shishapangma, the 14th highest peak in the world.  In 2014 I will be leading a expedition on the South side of the mountain.  Email me if you would like to join this trip.

The pilgrims of Kailash that made the arduous journey.  We unofficially named ourselves the "Zum Zums"  a Sherpa phrase that means "lets go".  Holy lake Manasarovar in the back round.  

Kids in the Limi Valley of remote Western Nepal.  Most of the population are of Tibetan heritage.  We were able to get a permit to walk through the valley for 8 days to continue and finish our pilgrimage in Nepal.  Blogs about the Limi Valley will follow Tibet blogs.

I met a 72 year old Tibetan Pilgrim Named "Karma Sonam"  I will write about him in upcoming blogs. 

Tibetan Pilgrim on day one of the Kora.  He spins a prayer wheel.  On the inside of the wheel is a long scroll of prayer text.  

Sponsors and supporters

I want to take a moment to tell you about companies who gave graciously to help make this journey possible.

Zing Bar.  Thank you again John.  If you have not tried Zing bars you may want to.  They are designed by nutritionist, gluten free, and they were a great treat on our journey.

Flying Apron.  Oh my god!  The flying apron supplied what is called the "Peanut butter Joy".   These were outstanding when our taste buds were missing home.  Visit "Flying Apron" in Seattle for totally gluten free treats.  Than you!

Figure Four.  Hands down the best packs on the market for serious alpinist.  It was awesome to use the pack on the Kailash kora for its weight and durability.  Thank you Steve.

Black Diamond Tents.  We used the black diamond stormtrac 4 season tents.  Once you learn how to set them up they are roomy and light and provided a secure get away from all conditions.  Definitely a must have tent.

Thank you to all.   Matt

Tibet September 23

Day 4 would be a long driving day.  The day made easier by the fact that we would see one of the holiest sights on earth, Mt Kailash and Lake Manasorovar.  The landscape changed several times already and now we are passing through high desert.  The colors here are a palette of sunset red, brick, lemon yellows, wheat grass, with splashes of green, outcrops of grey.  Again as in the past days I did not let sleep come while on the drive.  The anticipation of the first view of Kailash kept us looking off in the distance, over ridges, through valleys for just a glimpse of her slopes.  We asked are driver often "is that Kailash"  or " how much longer".

 Mt Kailash holds the designation of being one of the holiest sights on earth that is the least visited.  The latter being true because of the raw nature of the location.  The Tibetan plateau sits above 14,000 feet.   The base of Kailash is at 15,600 feet.  The actual pilgrimage takes place in this high altitude arena to altitudes above 18,000 feet.  It is a true adventure and the pilgrim has to acclimatize properly before attempting the Kora (pilgrimage).  This is not a place for ignorance.  The combination of altitude, cold, sleeping in tents at these elevations,  and of course permit issues make it the least visited but probably the most coveted holy sights on earth.  It is like Mecca or Jerusalem but unlike these sees only 2000 visitors a year.

Situated in far Western Tibet it is also hard to get to and Chinese regulation make it impossible to do on your own, literally impossible.  One of the newest regulation being that you must have at least 5 in your group with 4 of those being of the same nationality.  This is just one hurdle of a myriad of regulation.   (If you want to do this trip hire "Four Winds" we will get you there and out).

Now just hours away, breathing the rarefied air,  and running the gauntlet of bureaucracy,  I and I am sure all in the group felt privileged just to glimpse her slopes.  It is a lifetime goal of every Tibetan Buddhist, and Hindu, to walk the Kora.  Tibetans will walk the plateau for days with only a blanket, and water container to do the pilgrimage of suffering.  The devotion of the Tibetans is made up of surrender, sacrifice, suffering, and runs high.  It is not uncommon to see pilgrims prostrating the whole distance of the Kora.   A pilgrim would bend to his/her knees, lay on his stomach, stretch his leathery hands as far in front of him as possible, rise to his feet, take one step, and repeat.  I questioned weather there was any devotion greater than this and wondered if I would see such raw devotion on the Kora.

In the distance the road emptied into a valley.  To the left sparkling brilliant light reflected off of a large body of water.  Yes lake Manasarovar the holy lake.  I knew Kailash would be west of here and my eyes scanned excitedly.  There standing alone amongst the rolling brown hills stood a sentenel.  Bright white snows with a soft pallor, a summit touching heavens doors, Mt Kailash!  The occupants of the land cruiser grew excited then silent.  We were viewing something extraordinary.  As if entering a church we spoke very few words, the benevolent was present.

We turned south onto a dirt road.  We would be camping next to the Chugu monastery, a place where very few others get to camp, on the shores of Manasarovar.  Here we would spend 2 more days acclimatizing in the church of Kailash.

Greetings from 15600 feet.  We are at the village of Drag Nag perched just below the Cho La pass.  One of my beliefs is that the mountains will dictate your journey.  Not only has it been true on this trip but it was ever so true on the Tibet trip.  I think the itinerary changed daily on our Tibet trip.  One has to be flexible and have a total respect for the mountain.  Two days ago a young American woman that had befriended our group had this idea that she had to go to Everest Base Camp no matter what.  She was cocky and was going to do anything to get there.  She asked my opinion on her high altitude symptoms.  She was exhibiting a strong headache that had not gone away for 3 days.  Not the normal come and go high altitude headache.  I gave her my opinion "go down today, rest, and come back another day".  She was going to have none of that.  I told her my motto "the mountain will dictate your journey" as she walked off indignant.   The next morning we heard a rescue helicopter......   the young woman was on it.  I hope she is well and will return again to do her dream on the mountains schedule.  

Hello Everyone,
I am in the Khumbu on expedition and have a brief rest in Namche Bazaar.  I will have to continue blogs on the Tibet trip upon my return to Kathmandu but leave you with this:

Day 3 of our journey heading West across Tibet I saw the ultimate nomad.  We were 2 to 3 hours by car from any village.  The hills of Tibet stretched beyond the eye, endless.  The ultimate nomad caught my eye between horizon and road side, just a black speck in a sand sea.  Trotting with an air of confidence, a regal traveler with head held high, tail curled tight, and business to tend to.  This nomad is the formidable Tibetan Mastiff.  I would guess that the one I view now from the comfort of my car was 150 miles from the nearest Tibetan hovel.  The breed is known to travel 3 to 5 days without food and water.  They will fend off wolf to protect the nomadic family and fight to the death to keep the yak heard safe from snow leopard.

They also have a very lazy side.  I have watched the breed for 10 years or more and often you will see them lounging in the hot sun on a high rock.  I brought one from Nepal in 2004 and most of the day she lays and acts like we need to tend to her.  When it is time to protect the house from the odd raccoon she becomes fierce.  

Viewing this lone dog crossing the Tibetan plateau made me think about freedom, strength, and living without fear.  If you have a chance look up the breed do so.