Four Winds Himalayan Guide Service-Since 1995

Saturday, February 22, 2014

Chad Kellogg

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                                         Chad, you were a brother.  You were a force.  You were a true mountain breathing dragon, ...
Monday, December 23, 2013

If an Avalanche does't Kill you......

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We were at Camp I on Ama Dablam.  A 22,500 foot peak, Camp I is at 18,700 feet.  The summit seems so close from this perspective but 2 soli...
Saturday, December 7, 2013

Manasulu Expedition 2014

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There are only 14 peaks in the world that are over 8000 meters.  The 8th highest is a peak called Manasulu.  Its name means mountain of the...
Thursday, November 7, 2013

Diamox in the Himalaya

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I was baffled when I heard that a large popular travel company and outdoor retailer had all their clients on Diamox from day one on a trek ...
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Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Kathmandu- the 4th world

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It is 2:30 a.m..  I am in the Tibet Guest house in Kathmandu, jet lag.  I am down in the reception area.  It is a modest reception space bu...
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Why we climb

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   At 17,300 after returning from a summit attempt on Kangchung.  All the elements did not come together for us to reach the summit. ...
Saturday, October 5, 2013

surviving a bone marrow transplant

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There is no guarantee that you will be alive tomorrow or even in the next 10 minutes.  I have a bit of experience with this.  If you have n...
Saturday, August 31, 2013

Trekking the Himalaya 2014 Season

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Hello Everyone, Another season is upon us and we have a full group of trekkers for October of 2013.  We will not be doing an expedition th...
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Wednesday, June 26, 2013

FOUR WINDS CREW

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Meet part of the Four Winds Crew.  From Left Arjun, Gombu, Matt, Pramesh.  A big Thank You to these guys and also Hira and the crew at K...
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Friday, May 24, 2013

Hard Start

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Woke at 2am bumped the tent wall and crystals of ice showered me.  We had decided the day before to get a 3am start.  We were at 17,800 fee...
Monday, May 6, 2013

base camp and advance base camp

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We have made it to Base Camp.  It is the highest base camp I have ever had.  17,800 feet almost 500 feet higher than Everest Base Camp.  We...
Sunday, April 28, 2013

Base Camp and Sherpa crew

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We are a day away from Base camp.  The trekking group just departed down into thicker air.  What an outstanding group and trip.  We were ab...
Friday, April 26, 2013

first view

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We have arrived at Gokyo 15600 feet.  Everyone is doing well after a bout of sicknesses.  The weather is very unsettled in the Khumbu with ...
Monday, April 22, 2013

Light and fast Alpine Climbing

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Our climbing hardware gear list for our Kangchung expedition: 6 Black Diamond Express ice screws 3 pitons 1 set nuts 1 50 meter 8 mm r...

old school

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"I ski in these gloves" was his first response when I crinkled my brow. He held out his gloved covered hands.  These are not just...

All is well

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We have just reached Namche and finalized our climbing permit.  Everyone is doing well just the usual khumbu valley sicknesses, soar throat...
Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Uncanny Elizabeth Holly

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There has been one person who as kept track of every expedition since 1963 in the Nepal Himalaya.  Now in her 80s Elizabeth Holly has inter...
Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Lighten your load

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I am always astonished to see climbers on a 2 day climb of Mt Rainier carrying 50 pound packs. It is uncalled for and outdated.  For a 3 d...
Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Kangchung East Expedition

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Packing for an expedition is a bitter sweet action.  On Friday I depart for my 20th expedition. Our journey is to Kangchung East.  A p...
Thursday, March 14, 2013

Friendly Chinese Soldier

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We were driven from the main paved road to a dirt road strewn with garbage.  At the next turn we entered a gravel parking lot surrounded by...
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Matt Fioretti

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himalaya high
Seattle, Washington, United States
Matt Fioretti has been guiding climbing expeditions and leading treks in the Nepal Himalaya for 20 years. April of 2014 he completed his 34th season. In August of 2004 Matt would embark on one of the hardest climbs of his life with little chance of survival. He was diagnosed with Aplastic Anemia a rare bone marrow disorder. For well over a year Matt was in the death zone with blood levels as low as 30% of normal. After a year of struggle he finally accepted taking the only and highly dangerous route of a bone marrow transplant. On October 4 of 2005 he received the marrow of a non related donor, kind of like mixing water and oil and hoping at some point they blend. After 28 rounds of Chemo, 87 blood transfusions, full body radiation and 3 years of toil he reached the summit, surviving what would be the hardest climb of his life to date. Matt's favorite quote after the experience, "Remember to intentionally tweak your world once in awhile, get out of your comfort zone, it is here where the most growth occurs. Full on security is the denial of life". Matt has led 20 successful climbing expeditions in the Himalaya. Join one of his trips for an experience of a lifetime.
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