We all have arrived at the village of Namche at 11200 feet. We had a beautiful morning on our acclimatization hike to 12500 feet. Everyone had there first view of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and several of the high peaks. I always feel small and insignificant, humbled to walk amongst these peaks.
Ama Dablam holds many memories for me. I spent 3 seasons on the peak with my head Sherpa Chapa. Chapa passed in August of 2007. To view Ama Dablam today from a distance sparked a landslide of emotion. I can feel him watching over me as he always did.
His son Gombu Sherpa is on this trip with me helping with the trekking clients. I have been passing stories to Gombu about his father and how great of a Sirdar(head Sherpa) he was. Today Gombu said to me "I will try to be a great Sirdar like my father".
One story that sticks out in my mind happened on Ama Dablam. I had hiked to camp 1 on Ama Dablam with Chapa and clients. We set up tents and Chapa went on his way back down to Base camp 3 hours away. As I crawled in my tent I realized I had forgotten my sleeping pad. It was going to be a cold night without a pad and 20 digree temperatures. I emptied my pack and spread out the climbing rope and settled in for a long uncomfortable night at 18000 feet.
At 8 pm in the cold evening I see a headlamp through the icy tent wall. Chapa pokes his head in and tosses my sleeping pad in. He had descended to Base Camp and ascended back to camp one when he noticed my mistake. He said "I go down now" and he was gone. I think he had traveled 11 hours that day just to keep me safe.
We went through climbing gear today and we are all packed to go. Everyone is healthy.
This will be my last entry until We get off the mountain around May 20th. Would love to hear from you.
Matt Fioretti- Guide/Owner- has led 24 expeditions and has 44 seasons of experience at altitude.
Matt Fioretti - Guide/Owner has led 24 expeditions and has 44 seasons of experience at altitude.
About Four Winds
HISTORY
Four Winds Himalayan Guide Service has been guiding trips in the Himalaya since 1994. We have 25 years and 44 seasons of experience at altitude, including 24 successful climbing expeditions (meaning everyone came home). With an emphasis on uncrowded treks and remote climbs, clients leave Nepal/Tibet having experienced the rich culture, ancient trails, and the intense climbing available in the Himalaya. Founder Matt Fioretti has been Alpine climbing since 1984 and brings 38 years of experience to the high altitude arena. Gombu Sherpa and Singa Lama joined Matt early on and bring with them more than 30 years combined experience on the trails and steep faces of the high peaks. The accumulation of years and passion for the mountains between the 3 individuals insures a safe, rare adventure.
GROUP SIZE
Our trips are intimate. We allow only 6 to 9 trekkers and 2 to 6 climbers on a journey. You can call the owner Matt Fioretti at home or office anytime prior to the trek or climb. Weather your on a climb or trek, individual attention is one of our top priorities. You can expect prompt, courteous responses to your questions. Pre-trip orientations allow for everyone to receive a comfortable knowledge about the journey. While on the trek our adherence to small group size helps members become brother and sister, a camaraderie that often lasts for years afterwards. The intimacy is extended to our Sherpa and Nepali friends. We have created lasting relationships with the locals. Our group is greeted with a warmth that suggests we are part of the family. You feel at home and get a “backstage” view into the culture.
ABILITY
Almost anyone can do a trek in the Himalaya. You can be a beginner and feel comfortable with our experienced staff. Our age group has spanned 11 to 79 years old. The pace is slow and comfortable, each day hiking village to village and traversing the highest mountain range in the world. Everyone has acclimatized on our treks because of the calm pace and expertise of the guides. For the more advanced we offer guided and commercial climbs. Climbers with experience but daunted by the idea of high altitude, are taught expedition skills and the logistics of climbing a big mountain in a safe environment. For those who don’t need a guide we offer commercial trips. This means we handle all the logistics and red tape that are inherent in the Nepal Permit system, but you go as a climbing team member proficient at climbing.
SAFETY
Safety is our number one priority. Each group is registered with the American Embassy in Kathmandu and is equipped with a satalite phone. In 22 years of leading trips on the trails and mountains of Nepal our safety record is flawless.
Join us. We are personable, professional, fun, and have years of experience at altitude.
We specialize in the Himalaya of Nepal so you will have a transformational, adventure. One cannot walk through the Himalaya with out being changed or experiencing some shift in the soul.
Greg Valentine and Matt Fioretti did the first ascent of Nireka in a 2 day alpine style push.
Nearing the summit on the first ascent of Nireka. Four Winds strives to do peaks that are uncrowded, remote, and rarely done. On many of our expeditions we are the only team on the mountain.
Matt Fioretti eyeing the South Ridge of Cholatse
Everest at sunset from 20,000 ft.Everest Sunset from Pumori.
Nuptse
Taken from Camp I -Pumori
Pumori
S. W. Ridge. Pumori
We are insignificant
Trekkers at 16,000 feet dwarfed by some of the smaller peaks in Nepal. Have trouble acclimatizing? Our treks are designed so everyone acclimatizes.
Nirekha- 5th pitch
Join us in October 2015 on this beautiful climb
Friday, April 30, 2010
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
April 27th A Guides Job
Arrived in Kathmandu on the 26th. When I left I had a suprise at the Sea Tac Airport. One of the clients pulled me aside and with a serious voice said "I have a problem". I thought, "we are at the airport so he must of forgotten his passport or ticket". In a low voice he hunches over and says "You need to give me a shot every 10 days." I was relieved that it was not the forgoten passport or ticket. No problem David. I ask "in the arm?". He gives me a blank face. I then realize I will have to give him an innoculation in his butt and wish he had forgoten his passport. I have done many things for clients but this one is beyond a guide duty. In trying to be a consumate guide I agree then turn to the other clients, "we will be having a card game every 10 days. The loser has to give David a shot in his ass. "
We arrived kathmandu and within 5 minutes the gate keeper of all expeditions called me on the phone. Elizabeth Hawley is a writer reporter who has been documenting every expedition coming to Nepal since the American expedition of 1963. She is a true legend and I always feel privilaged to sit and talk with her.
We depart for Lukla a small village with an even smaller landing strip. I always have felt that the landing in Lukla is as scary as some of the climbs. Lukla is the gateway to the Khumbu region (Everest region). We will then take two days to hike to Namche at 11200 feet. A rest day will be welcomed on the 30th, sleeping, eating, reading, card games, writing. On the first we continue our approach to Kyajo Ri via the Renjo La pass at 17300 feet.
Be well.
We arrived kathmandu and within 5 minutes the gate keeper of all expeditions called me on the phone. Elizabeth Hawley is a writer reporter who has been documenting every expedition coming to Nepal since the American expedition of 1963. She is a true legend and I always feel privilaged to sit and talk with her.
We depart for Lukla a small village with an even smaller landing strip. I always have felt that the landing in Lukla is as scary as some of the climbs. Lukla is the gateway to the Khumbu region (Everest region). We will then take two days to hike to Namche at 11200 feet. A rest day will be welcomed on the 30th, sleeping, eating, reading, card games, writing. On the first we continue our approach to Kyajo Ri via the Renjo La pass at 17300 feet.
Be well.
Saturday, April 24, 2010
April 24,2010- Waking
Sixth day of Transplant October 10th, 2005
Kyajo Ri
April 24th 6a.m., 2010. I wake up this morning with the excitement of another expedition. Waking is such a gift. Just 3 years ago I was fighting for my life. During the bone marrow transplant period I remember going to sleep and wondering if I would wake up in the morning. Waking is such a gift. At one point I had set a goal. After my
4th round of Rutaxan, a nasty last chance Chemotherapy, my physical strength was gone. I returned home and set the goal of being able to walk to my mail box just 40 yards down the road. My first journey out I made it to the bottom of my steps just 10 feet from the front door of my house. The mailbox expedition would have to wait another day as I could just make it back up the steps and the 10 feet back to my sofa. For 7 months I lay all day on the sofa. Daily I would try for the mailbox. At one point I encountered a white owl sitting above my Koi pond on one of my attempts. At the time I didn’t know the significance but recently found that native Americans believe that death is near when a white owl presents itself. It took me 14 days before I could make the 40 yards to the mail box.
This morning I am thankful. It has taken 4 years to recover but I can finally say I am healthier, stronger than I was before transplant. Today I depart to climb a peak called Kyajo Ri. A 20,390 foot peak west of Everest. In 2002 I tried the first ascent of the peak on its east face. We hope for a 6 day ascent from Base Camp on its south face.
I want to thank: My friends( you know who you are) family (too many to list), Dr. Linenberger, Dr. Keel, Natalia Rudovsky, Anne and Charlie Diemer, Dr Steve Carter, Kishor and Dawn Shrestha, Bob and Georgia Conglton, Michael Brannon, Fabrizio Zangrilli. Support from the gang at active.com, Nalgene , Steripen, North Face, and Black Diamond, Smith Sunglasses.
A special Thanks to my wife, Thank you, Thank you , Thank you
Thank you all for helping me wake this morning. Waking is such a gift.
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