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Matt Fioretti- Guide/Owner- has led 20 expeditions and has 35 seasons of experience at altitude.

Matt Fioretti- Guide/Owner- has led 20 expeditions and has 35 seasons of experience at altitude.
Matt Fioretti - Guide/Owner has led 22 expeditions and has 36 seasons of experience at altitude.




About Four Winds


HISTORY

Four Winds Himalayan Guide Service has been guiding trips in the Himalaya since 1994. We have more than 22 years and 38 seasons of experience at altitude, including 19 successful climbing expeditions. With an emphasis on uncrowded treks and remote climbs, clients leave Nepal/Tibet having experienced the rich culture, ancient trails, and the intense climbing available in the Himalaya. Founder Matt Fioretti has been Alpine climbing since 1984 and brings 26 years of experience to the high altitude arena. Gambia Sherpa and Singa Lama joined Matt early on and bring with them more than 30 years combined experience on the trails and steep faces of the high peaks. The accumulation of years and passion for the mountains between the 3 individuals insures a safe, rare adventure.


GROUP SIZE

Our trips are intimate. We allow only 6 to 9 trekkers and 2 to 6 climbers on a journey. You can call the owner Matt Fioretti at home or office anytime prior to the trek or climb. Weather your on a climb or trek, individual attention is one of our top priorities. You can expect prompt, courteous responses to your questions. Pre-trip orientations allow for everyone to receive a comfortable knowledge about the journey. While on the trek our adherence to small group size helps members become brother and sister, a camaraderie that often lasts for years afterwards. The intimacy is extended to our Sherpa and Nepali friends. We have created lasting relationships with the locals. Our group is greeted with a warmth that suggests we are part of the family. You feel at home and get a “backstage” view into the culture.


ABILITY

Almost anyone can do a trek in the Himalaya. You can be a beginner and feel comfortable with our experienced staff. Our age group has spanned 11 to 79 years old. The pace is slow and comfortable, each day hiking village to village and traversing the highest mountain range in the world. Everyone has acclimatized on our treks because of the calm pace and expertise of the guides. For the more advanced we offer guided and commercial climbs. Climbers with experience but daunted by the idea of high altitude, are taught expedition skills and the logistics of climbing a big mountain in a safe environment. For those who don’t need a guide we offer commercial trips. This means we handle all the logistics and red tape that are inherent in the Nepal Permit system, but you go as a climbing team member proficient at climbing.


SAFETY

Safety is our number one priority. Each group is registered with the American Embassy in Kathmandu and is equipped with a satalite phone. In 22 years of leading trips on the trails and mountains of Nepal our safety record is flawless.


Join us. We are personable, professional, fun, and have years of experience at altitude.

We specialize in the Himalaya of Nepal so you will have a transformational, adventure. One cannot walk through the Himalaya with out being changed or experiencing some shift in the soul.




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Trekking and Climbing Shedule

Please call for possible openings for 2017. Now taking deposits for April, 2017, and 2017 trips

2017 March Expedition- Mt Everest, Tibet side $28,000

April 2017 Trek- Trek the 5 holy lakes in the Gokyo area. Hike to the summit of a 17700 foot peak. Cross a 17660 foot pass, visit 2 monasteries while trekking village to village. 20 days door to door. All abilities. 3 spaces left

September 2017 - Pilgrimage Mt. Kailash - Tibet's holy mountain. A true extreme hike and adventure. Hiking over the crest of the Himalaya in Nepal to Tibet. Then circumambulating Tibet's holy mountain on pilgrimage with Tibetans. Must be in excellent physical condition. 7 to 9 hour hiking days at altitude. 4 spaces left.

Sept. 2017 - Ama Dablam Expedition. Four Winds has led 3 expeditions to Ama Dablam and we will return in 2017. A classic climb to test your climbing ability. 5.8 rock, AI 2 Ice, all mixed with altitude make this a challenging climb. spaces available


October 2017 Trek- Trek the 5 holy lakes in the Gokyo area. Hike to the summit of a 17700 foot peak. Cross a 17660 foot pass and visit 2 monasteries while trekking village to village. All abilities. 6 Spaces Left

For more information and pricing please email or call.

Phone: 206-282-0472

Email: fourwindsexpedtions@gmail.com


Website: fourwindsexpeditions.com


Greg Valentine and Matt Fioretti did the first ascent of Nireka in a 2 day alpine style push.

Greg Valentine and Matt Fioretti did the first ascent of Nireka in a 2 day alpine style push.
Nearing the summit on the first ascent of Nireka. Four Winds strives to do peaks that are uncrowded, remote, and rarely done. On many of our expeditions we are the only team on the mountain.

Matt Fioretti eyeing the South Ridge of Cholatse

Matt Fioretti eyeing the South Ridge of Cholatse



What clients have to say....


True to his word, Matt was committed to safety on our trek to Nepal.He is knowledgeable, organized and has a positive attitude which is infectious. Matt is well loved in the communities we visited. The respect and admiration he has developed with the Nepali people created a unique, enhanced and truly exceptional experience for our group. Thanks, Matt! October 2013 Trek.

K. Baker


Going to Nepal was like stepping into the pages of National Geographic with the color, chaos and crowds of Kathmandu to the breathtakingly beautiful snow capped Himalayas. Matt had said we would stay with friends (I read business associates; I was wrong). These people were Matt's second family and they treated us as family. I didn't have as much vacation time as the rest of my group, so I returned early. It snowed one night and the inn keeper, Urken wouldn't let me leave until the trail was broken. A little while later I looked out the window and Urken was up on the mountain checking the trail for me. He came back in and said it was safe to go now. Later as I was crossing one of many suspension bridges, my porter, Prem, ran ahead of me to stop the yak train from starting across the bridge until I had finished crossing. With Matt's group you're not a tourist, you're part of Nepal, you're family.


Namaste,

Kathy


“It has been years since I went with Matt and his crew to Ama Dablam and crazy as it sounds, it still feels like yesterday. The experience was one that is hard to put into words, when you are there amongst the people and grandeur of the Himalayas you feel all at once small and insignificant, yet more real and present than ever. I carry the essence and spirit of that journey with me everyday. Just go… more than that, go with Matt.”


I was just shy of 60 when I did the Everest Trail Trek with Matt. It was one of the most memorable events in my life! I loved it! And I learned some trekking lessons that apply to the rest of life, as well---like "Pace yourself." Those of us who did pace ourselves made it to the magnificent Everest Base Camp area at 17,000'. Throughout the entire trek we always felt secure with wonderfully kind Sherpas always there to lend a hand and encourage us onward. It was a grand initial experience into trekking that held so very many gifts from beginning to end.

Port Townsend



"My trips to Nepal with Four Winds were life-changing experiences, in the best possible way. Being halfway around the world, in an unfamiliar place, thousands of miles away from everything you know, can be a scary situation, but when you're with Matt, there's a comfort level. It feels like all of Nepal is your family."

M. Mahoney



Yes, the trek stands out as one of my life's most amazing experiences, certainly because of the Himalayas magnificence, but also due to our group's lighthearted, playful camaraderie, the welcoming arms of the locals at the teahouses where you had been before, evening card games, and the way you kept us always under your protective eye ... checking every day for our oxygen saturation levels, making sure we drank enough water, stopping for rest when needed, and also encouraging us along, like on Gokyo Ri, for those last panting steps, so that I might not miss the view of one of the world's most spectacular, breath-taking sights ... and yet, I never felt pampered or stifled, as you simultaneously offered ample space for us to move in our own rhythms, moods and pace.

If I never properly said thanks to you before for all that Matt ... Thanks!!! ... the experience will continue to resonate within me for my lifetime!


Some things that are extraordinary about Nepal and going with Four Winds. Kids smiling faces, fluffy clouds, the aroma of incense, village life, and the journey in the mountains. I especially liked the pace of the trek. I could go at my own pace and felt comfortable. Tim S.


With Matt I have successfully climbed a 6000 meter peak and a 8000 meter peak in the Himalaya even though I suffer from a liver disease. The first was Naya Kanga, 6000M, post -monsoon , in the Langtang region near Ganga La. The friends I made have become lifelong best friends, not only the fellow trekkers but the sherpas as well, like Singi and Sangi who brought me milk tea (Dudh Chai)and cheese on the descent. The Four Winds staff, assistants and Sherpas, make the journey possible. When climbing Cho Oyu from Tibet we spent 7 weeks in the Dingri Region and 4 weeks above 20K feet, climbing to 27,500 feet without oxygen. Matt, being the consummate guide escorted a sick teammate back to BC. Two of the five members made the summit. When I go back it will be with Four Winds and fortunately with Matt who also had a serious illness sidetrack him, but who has already made his recovery and found his way back to the Himalayas. This is the true meaning of meeting life's challenges, and this is what you can achieve with Four Winds. Hope to see you on the high mountains. Namaste!

Glen Anders


Matt and Four Winds Himalayan Guide Service kindled in me a deep love of alpine climbing on my first trip to Nepal in 1999. This first trip taught me a lot and I have returned to Nepal with Matt four times since. Matt has a deep love and respect for the indigenous culture of the Sherpa people of the Khumbu, and in his 20 year dealings with the people in that region, he has established many deep friendships; it is especially remarkable to share in these connections with him. I have always felt safe when climbing with Matt. He has developed good mountain sense over the years, and his motto "may the four winds blow you safely home" is a propos of his climbing philosophy which holds safety in high regard. Matt is also a fountainhead of ideas, and has always provided a source of inspiration for those seekers who take to the mountains. I have learned a lot from Matt's personal struggles with aplastic anemia, and his return to active climbing continues to inspire many people to see mountains as metaphors for the challenges we all face in life. I have Matt to thank for what has developed into a life-long passion for me. It all started with one trip to the Himalaya.




My journey to Nepal with Matt and Four Winds was inspirational and life-transforming. Matt's expertise in guiding allowed us to safely explore the exquisite beauty of the Himalayas and experience Nepal's fascinating culture. We always felt welcome wherever we went, as Matt has formed incredible connections with the people of Kathmandu, the sherpas who gently encouraged us, and the families who brought us into their homes and fed us delicious meals. Nepal is a hiker and climber's paradise and an adventurer's dream. It's beauty is truly divine. The journey has made a permanent impact on the way I live my life, appreciate nature and take risks. I highly recommend traveling with Four Winds! Aileen P.



The smell was of burning lantern oils and incense. The colors were the bluest of blues for the sky and the whitest of whites for the clouds. The sounds were of another language, and the ringing of yak bells were soothing to my ears late into the night. The touch of the air was bitter cold in a soothing way. The taste of the food was bland, yet sweet and interesting to my taste buds. When I close my eyes and think back on this journey , it was the most romantic thing I have aver experienced on my own. I have returned with Four Winds 3 times. David Frisk



“Thank you Matt for my wonderful trip to Nepal. It really changed my life forever” Jeanne


Matt, I wanted to officially thank you for a seamless trip to Nepal which you made fun and easy. The trip and all its details were extremely well thought out. With all your planning, I never had to worry about any of the details one would normally have to deal with when traveling half way around the world. I also felt priviledged and protected to be under the many watchful eyes of all the friends you have made over the years (Gombu, Qayoom, Dawafuti & family, Tsedem, etc). Even when I branched off on my own your friends were there to make sure I was safe and happy (Hira, Ramesh, etc). If it wasnt for you and your flexible, can-do attitude, I would never have made this trip to the wonderful and amazing Nepal. D. Oxford


My trip to Nepal was life alterning and I owe so much of that to Matt and his team. He has such a passion for the country and the people that my trip was anything but ordinary. While we were taken to many of the main tourist attraction sites, we were also shown sites of Nepal that few tourists rarely see. My trek back to the 5th holy lake at Goyko will forever be in my heart as one of the greatest experiences of my life. Matt was in constant communication about changes to the intinerary (a common fact when traveling in the third world) and always worked diligently to ensure that things went as smoothly as possible, and that we were getting the best experiences everyday. His easy going personality allows for lots of laughs with quick and lasting bonds being formed. I am grateful to have found Matt and his team. I didn't have one bad expereince on this trip and I look forward to when I will be able to go again!


Everest at sunset from 20,000 ft.Everest Sunset from Pumori.

Everest at sunset from 20,000 ft.Everest Sunset from Pumori.

Nuptse

Nuptse
Taken from Camp I -Pumori

Pumori

Pumori
S. W. Ridge. Pumori

We are insignificant

We are insignificant
Trekkers at 16,000 feet dwarfed by some of the smaller peaks in Nepal. Have trouble acclimatizing? Our treks are designed so everyone acclimatizes.

Nirekha- 5th pitch

Nirekha- 5th pitch
Join us in October 2015 on this beautiful climb

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Down and Safe

On May 15th we (Matt Fioretti, David Frisk, Carter Nelson, Peter Carey, and assistant guide John Miller) had a leasurely morning waking at camp I. We just had to move from camp I to a camp II on a high cole at 17800 ft just about 3 hours away. We departed camp I at 9:30 am dumping any weight we could.

The approach up until now was difficult terrain. There is no trail to Kyajo Ri. The approach is loose scree, large rolling- moving bolders, and crap that is hard to relax on. It is a very taxing approach. A friend of mine "Mingma Sherpa who is has summitted Everest 3 times said to me in Namche "Matt, I climb Everest many times but Kyajo Ri harder than Everest". He definately is refering to the approach where one momentary lapse in concentration on the bolder field will end with a sprained ankle or broken leg.

This approach was taxing on everyone of us. Everybody remained very possitive and in great spirits as we approached the cole which would leave us roughly 1800 feet to the summit.

One hour from the col, I could see that David was slowing and sensed that he was nearing his end. A conversation confirmed his status with few words "I am tired, dont think I can make the col. I decided to take David down and give John and gang a shot at the summit. There are few climbers like David who dont let their egos get in the way and I appreciated his truthfulness. Very selfless of him as if he continued, the possibility of putting the group in a dangerous situation may have befallen us.

John and Carter continued on the morning of the 16th and reached a high point just 150 meters below the summit before Carter let John know that he was out of gas. What a great try! Peter stayed at the col with a crampon problem and showed us all an awesome response to his crampon, now broken in two parts. "Well Ill just stay at the col and take photos of these guys". Most of us would have been swearing at the mountain Gods for the shitty crampon and bad luck, possibly throw our gear in a crevace and stomp down the mountain making hand gestures.

Thank You John Miller for taking up the slack and leading every pitch. This is not easy work at altitude. AI 3 becomes very sharp at altitude. John lead every pitch in cool style.

Over all it was a great trip and great team. All easy going. Photos and more with in the next day. Next post : The Lukla toilet

Monday, May 17, 2010

Namche Cyber Cafe

What would I do with out Santosh at the Namche Cyber Cafe? I am still learning how to send email! Thank You Santosh.

Camp I


We moved to Camp I and begin our alpine style ascent. Everyone is well.

Base Camp



Arrived Base Camp on May 10th. What a heavenly place. According to the Nepal Mountaineering Association only 16 climbers have visited the valley since 2006. The Base Camp is remote, a high pasture with wild flowers, rock walls on both sides rising 1000 plus feet. At the head of the valley a 600 foot water fall cascades to the grass floor and a quiet stream passes by our tents to the end of the valley. The Yeti dwells here no doubt. We are at 15000 feet. To arrive at this place we researched a high trail over a pass from Khunde, an approach trail rarely used by locals. Imagine "Lord of the Rings" type terrain, a fairy tale land. The photo I have attached you can just make out our Base Camp tents in yellow, small and insignificant. This is a place where you can only be humble. Matt

Sunday, May 9, 2010

escaping the pig

Ramesh presented us the pork yesterday. It was fried. Behind Ramesh I could see Urkin Sherpa communicate with his eyes, "please dont eat that". Ramesh put the plate in front of me. "Oh Ramesh, we are all Mulem" just escaped my mouth without thinking. Ramesh said "Ok sure sure, no problem". We all escaped the pig.

One day from Base Camp

We have arrived in Khunde. Urkin Sherpa showed us a local trail that was nothing short of a National Geographic adventure. The trail was pioneered by his great grandfather and only locals use it between Namche and Dole. We all had a great time.

The trekkers are on their way home and the climbers on to base camp and we are all a little sad to split up. We all have had fun. Christo Corzatte said "This was one of the most challenging yet one of the most rewarding things I have ever done".

Bob Stier says "The peaks are amazing, of course, but I have been so struck by the small things we have encountered. Exotic birds, baby yaks, wild flowers, and wonderful people."

Carter, David, and I leave for BC tomorrow over a secret pass out of Khunde. Usually it takes 2 days from Namche. Our new route will take 6 hours from Namche.

Photos and blogs after our return. Love to you all.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

A Slab of Pig

In 2008 I was on my way to climb the South West ridge of Pumori. On that journey we had a porter named Ramesh who loved to drink Chang, the local rice wine. He was always drunk but very positive and strong. He would be passed out by 7pm and wake to carry more than all the other porters. He always smiles and sings on the trail. After the Pumori trip I always hoped to see Ramesh again.

When we landed in Lukla and began to organize our duffel bags I hear a voice from the crowd of porters waiting for work. Ramesh never called me by my first name and always called my by the phrase "my boss". Now through the sea of voices I hear "My boss, my boss, OK OK, my boss". I turn and see Ramesh and his wind blown and alcohol colored cheeks.

We leave Lukla, Ramesh on my heels. I ask him whens the last time he showered. "OK my boss no problem, sure sure". I find that he has not showered for 20 days. We continue down the trail, I try to stay in front of him as the smell is horrible but his company uplifting.

We are in Machermo now at 14600 feet. Sitting in the warm tea room all of us sipping tea. Ramesh enters the room. "OK my boss, sure sure". He has a big smile and smells like Chang. He has a package wrapped in news paper and holds the package in his hands like it is a precious diamond. He slams it down in front of me and opens the news paper. Inside was a slab of meat. "What is this Ramesh?" "Pig" he replies.

Ramesh had purchased a slab of pig in Namche and was presenting it to me and the group to help us over the 18000 foot Renjo Pass. I smile at the gesture and kindness. "Thank you Ramesh". He grabs the slab of meat with his unwashed hands of 20 days, opens his grease stained jacket and exits the tea house happy to be expedition support.

Later I pull the group aside and begin to plan how we will receive the meat but not eat it. The Renjo pass is a few days away and we all are dreading the moment he pulls out the pig meat and says "my boss my boss, sure sure"

I am happy to have Ramesh again as a porter. Everyone is enjoying him.

In Search of the Illusive Yarsa Gomba

We are still on approach to our climb and one of our stops is the small village of Dole. We had a real treat in Dole. Urkin Sherpa took us on an acclimatization hike. Urkin was a Sirdar (head sherpa) for several of the early expeditions to the Himalaya. He is a wealth of knowledge and History. We followed him for several hours like little ducklings. He was silent most of the hike. At one point he dropped to his knees and began crawling on all fours. We all looked at each other puzzled. He tells us that there is a plant that grows here that cures cancer, it is rare but if you are lucky we will find one. He crawls and searches with a passion. "Ahhhh you are lucky today" Urkin wave us over.

He begins to explain the rare plant called Yarsa Gomba. At first several of us are in disbelief as he explains that the plant is not just a plant but half plant half catapiller. It is very rare to find one and we are all excited but confused. I ask him again "this is a bug and a plant in one?" He replies "you will see". We all drop to our knees to search for more, 5 Americans cralling on hands and knees at 15000 feet in a remote valley of the Himalaya. We all begin to laugh at the thought.

We follow Urkin back to the tea house and he drops the Yarsa Gomba into a bowl of water. Before our eyes a huge catapiller like bug shows itself. Its cocoon produces a plant which grows out of the head and produces 2 leaves. Urkin will eat it for breakfast and we are relieved that he does not offer it to us.

We hike to Machrmo tomorrow at 14600 feet.



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