On May 15th we (Matt Fioretti, David Frisk, Carter Nelson, Peter Carey, and assistant guide John Miller) had a leasurely morning waking at camp I. We just had to move from camp I to a camp II on a high cole at 17800 ft just about 3 hours away. We departed camp I at 9:30 am dumping any weight we could.
The approach up until now was difficult terrain. There is no trail to Kyajo Ri. The approach is loose scree, large rolling- moving bolders, and crap that is hard to relax on. It is a very taxing approach. A friend of mine "Mingma Sherpa who is has summitted Everest 3 times said to me in Namche "Matt, I climb Everest many times but Kyajo Ri harder than Everest". He definately is refering to the approach where one momentary lapse in concentration on the bolder field will end with a sprained ankle or broken leg.
This approach was taxing on everyone of us. Everybody remained very possitive and in great spirits as we approached the cole which would leave us roughly 1800 feet to the summit.
One hour from the col, I could see that David was slowing and sensed that he was nearing his end. A conversation confirmed his status with few words "I am tired, dont think I can make the col. I decided to take David down and give John and gang a shot at the summit. There are few climbers like David who dont let their egos get in the way and I appreciated his truthfulness. Very selfless of him as if he continued, the possibility of putting the group in a dangerous situation may have befallen us.
John and Carter continued on the morning of the 16th and reached a high point just 150 meters below the summit before Carter let John know that he was out of gas. What a great try! Peter stayed at the col with a crampon problem and showed us all an awesome response to his crampon, now broken in two parts. "Well Ill just stay at the col and take photos of these guys". Most of us would have been swearing at the mountain Gods for the shitty crampon and bad luck, possibly throw our gear in a crevace and stomp down the mountain making hand gestures.
Thank You John Miller for taking up the slack and leading every pitch. This is not easy work at altitude. AI 3 becomes very sharp at altitude. John lead every pitch in cool style.
Over all it was a great trip and great team. All easy going. Photos and more with in the next day. Next post : The Lukla toilet
Saturday, May 22, 2010
Monday, May 17, 2010
Namche Cyber Cafe
What would I do with out Santosh at the Namche Cyber Cafe? I am still learning how to send email! Thank You Santosh.
Base Camp
Arrived Base Camp on May 10th. What a heavenly place. According to the Nepal Mountaineering Association only 16 climbers have visited the valley since 2006. The Base Camp is remote, a high pasture with wild flowers, rock walls on both sides rising 1000 plus feet. At the head of the valley a 600 foot water fall cascades to the grass floor and a quiet stream passes by our tents to the end of the valley. The Yeti dwells here no doubt. We are at 15000 feet. To arrive at this place we researched a high trail over a pass from Khunde, an approach trail rarely used by locals. Imagine "Lord of the Rings" type terrain, a fairy tale land. The photo I have attached you can just make out our Base Camp tents in yellow, small and insignificant. This is a place where you can only be humble. Matt
Sunday, May 9, 2010
escaping the pig
Ramesh presented us the pork yesterday. It was fried. Behind Ramesh I could see Urkin Sherpa communicate with his eyes, "please dont eat that". Ramesh put the plate in front of me. "Oh Ramesh, we are all Mulem" just escaped my mouth without thinking. Ramesh said "Ok sure sure, no problem". We all escaped the pig.
One day from Base Camp
We have arrived in Khunde. Urkin Sherpa showed us a local trail that was nothing short of a National Geographic adventure. The trail was pioneered by his great grandfather and only locals use it between Namche and Dole. We all had a great time.
The trekkers are on their way home and the climbers on to base camp and we are all a little sad to split up. We all have had fun. Christo Corzatte said "This was one of the most challenging yet one of the most rewarding things I have ever done".
Bob Stier says "The peaks are amazing, of course, but I have been so struck by the small things we have encountered. Exotic birds, baby yaks, wild flowers, and wonderful people."
Carter, David, and I leave for BC tomorrow over a secret pass out of Khunde. Usually it takes 2 days from Namche. Our new route will take 6 hours from Namche.
Photos and blogs after our return. Love to you all.
The trekkers are on their way home and the climbers on to base camp and we are all a little sad to split up. We all have had fun. Christo Corzatte said "This was one of the most challenging yet one of the most rewarding things I have ever done".
Bob Stier says "The peaks are amazing, of course, but I have been so struck by the small things we have encountered. Exotic birds, baby yaks, wild flowers, and wonderful people."
Carter, David, and I leave for BC tomorrow over a secret pass out of Khunde. Usually it takes 2 days from Namche. Our new route will take 6 hours from Namche.
Photos and blogs after our return. Love to you all.
Wednesday, May 5, 2010
A Slab of Pig
In 2008 I was on my way to climb the South West ridge of Pumori. On that journey we had a porter named Ramesh who loved to drink Chang, the local rice wine. He was always drunk but very positive and strong. He would be passed out by 7pm and wake to carry more than all the other porters. He always smiles and sings on the trail. After the Pumori trip I always hoped to see Ramesh again.
When we landed in Lukla and began to organize our duffel bags I hear a voice from the crowd of porters waiting for work. Ramesh never called me by my first name and always called my by the phrase "my boss". Now through the sea of voices I hear "My boss, my boss, OK OK, my boss". I turn and see Ramesh and his wind blown and alcohol colored cheeks.
We leave Lukla, Ramesh on my heels. I ask him whens the last time he showered. "OK my boss no problem, sure sure". I find that he has not showered for 20 days. We continue down the trail, I try to stay in front of him as the smell is horrible but his company uplifting.
We are in Machermo now at 14600 feet. Sitting in the warm tea room all of us sipping tea. Ramesh enters the room. "OK my boss, sure sure". He has a big smile and smells like Chang. He has a package wrapped in news paper and holds the package in his hands like it is a precious diamond. He slams it down in front of me and opens the news paper. Inside was a slab of meat. "What is this Ramesh?" "Pig" he replies.
Ramesh had purchased a slab of pig in Namche and was presenting it to me and the group to help us over the 18000 foot Renjo Pass. I smile at the gesture and kindness. "Thank you Ramesh". He grabs the slab of meat with his unwashed hands of 20 days, opens his grease stained jacket and exits the tea house happy to be expedition support.
Later I pull the group aside and begin to plan how we will receive the meat but not eat it. The Renjo pass is a few days away and we all are dreading the moment he pulls out the pig meat and says "my boss my boss, sure sure"
I am happy to have Ramesh again as a porter. Everyone is enjoying him.
When we landed in Lukla and began to organize our duffel bags I hear a voice from the crowd of porters waiting for work. Ramesh never called me by my first name and always called my by the phrase "my boss". Now through the sea of voices I hear "My boss, my boss, OK OK, my boss". I turn and see Ramesh and his wind blown and alcohol colored cheeks.
We leave Lukla, Ramesh on my heels. I ask him whens the last time he showered. "OK my boss no problem, sure sure". I find that he has not showered for 20 days. We continue down the trail, I try to stay in front of him as the smell is horrible but his company uplifting.
We are in Machermo now at 14600 feet. Sitting in the warm tea room all of us sipping tea. Ramesh enters the room. "OK my boss, sure sure". He has a big smile and smells like Chang. He has a package wrapped in news paper and holds the package in his hands like it is a precious diamond. He slams it down in front of me and opens the news paper. Inside was a slab of meat. "What is this Ramesh?" "Pig" he replies.
Ramesh had purchased a slab of pig in Namche and was presenting it to me and the group to help us over the 18000 foot Renjo Pass. I smile at the gesture and kindness. "Thank you Ramesh". He grabs the slab of meat with his unwashed hands of 20 days, opens his grease stained jacket and exits the tea house happy to be expedition support.
Later I pull the group aside and begin to plan how we will receive the meat but not eat it. The Renjo pass is a few days away and we all are dreading the moment he pulls out the pig meat and says "my boss my boss, sure sure"
I am happy to have Ramesh again as a porter. Everyone is enjoying him.
In Search of the Illusive Yarsa Gomba
We are still on approach to our climb and one of our stops is the small village of Dole. We had a real treat in Dole. Urkin Sherpa took us on an acclimatization hike. Urkin was a Sirdar (head sherpa) for several of the early expeditions to the Himalaya. He is a wealth of knowledge and History. We followed him for several hours like little ducklings. He was silent most of the hike. At one point he dropped to his knees and began crawling on all fours. We all looked at each other puzzled. He tells us that there is a plant that grows here that cures cancer, it is rare but if you are lucky we will find one. He crawls and searches with a passion. "Ahhhh you are lucky today" Urkin wave us over.
He begins to explain the rare plant called Yarsa Gomba. At first several of us are in disbelief as he explains that the plant is not just a plant but half plant half catapiller. It is very rare to find one and we are all excited but confused. I ask him again "this is a bug and a plant in one?" He replies "you will see". We all drop to our knees to search for more, 5 Americans cralling on hands and knees at 15000 feet in a remote valley of the Himalaya. We all begin to laugh at the thought.
We follow Urkin back to the tea house and he drops the Yarsa Gomba into a bowl of water. Before our eyes a huge catapiller like bug shows itself. Its cocoon produces a plant which grows out of the head and produces 2 leaves. Urkin will eat it for breakfast and we are relieved that he does not offer it to us.
We hike to Machrmo tomorrow at 14600 feet.
He begins to explain the rare plant called Yarsa Gomba. At first several of us are in disbelief as he explains that the plant is not just a plant but half plant half catapiller. It is very rare to find one and we are all excited but confused. I ask him again "this is a bug and a plant in one?" He replies "you will see". We all drop to our knees to search for more, 5 Americans cralling on hands and knees at 15000 feet in a remote valley of the Himalaya. We all begin to laugh at the thought.
We follow Urkin back to the tea house and he drops the Yarsa Gomba into a bowl of water. Before our eyes a huge catapiller like bug shows itself. Its cocoon produces a plant which grows out of the head and produces 2 leaves. Urkin will eat it for breakfast and we are relieved that he does not offer it to us.
We hike to Machrmo tomorrow at 14600 feet.