A Slab of Pig

In 2008 I was on my way to climb the South West ridge of Pumori. On that journey we had a porter named Ramesh who loved to drink Chang, the local rice wine. He was always drunk but very positive and strong. He would be passed out by 7pm and wake to carry more than all the other porters. He always smiles and sings on the trail. After the Pumori trip I always hoped to see Ramesh again.

When we landed in Lukla and began to organize our duffel bags I hear a voice from the crowd of porters waiting for work. Ramesh never called me by my first name and always called my by the phrase "my boss". Now through the sea of voices I hear "My boss, my boss, OK OK, my boss". I turn and see Ramesh and his wind blown and alcohol colored cheeks.

We leave Lukla, Ramesh on my heels. I ask him whens the last time he showered. "OK my boss no problem, sure sure". I find that he has not showered for 20 days. We continue down the trail, I try to stay in front of him as the smell is horrible but his company uplifting.

We are in Machermo now at 14600 feet. Sitting in the warm tea room all of us sipping tea. Ramesh enters the room. "OK my boss, sure sure". He has a big smile and smells like Chang. He has a package wrapped in news paper and holds the package in his hands like it is a precious diamond. He slams it down in front of me and opens the news paper. Inside was a slab of meat. "What is this Ramesh?" "Pig" he replies.

Ramesh had purchased a slab of pig in Namche and was presenting it to me and the group to help us over the 18000 foot Renjo Pass. I smile at the gesture and kindness. "Thank you Ramesh". He grabs the slab of meat with his unwashed hands of 20 days, opens his grease stained jacket and exits the tea house happy to be expedition support.

Later I pull the group aside and begin to plan how we will receive the meat but not eat it. The Renjo pass is a few days away and we all are dreading the moment he pulls out the pig meat and says "my boss my boss, sure sure"

I am happy to have Ramesh again as a porter. Everyone is enjoying him.