Wednesday, October 26, 2011

October 18th success but no summit

It is the ultimate test of letting go, turning back, surrender. The summit is only 4 to 5 hours away. We carried our gear high as planned. We began to climb through the avalanche cone to 18000 feet, the curiousity of the rock section that split the snow ramp pulling us higher. We were not sure if the rock was steep, loose, or possible. At about 18100 feet a loud thud permiated the silence. I froze and the thud became louder, louder, louder. "Rooooockkk" I shouted once to Sabrina and Wesley just below me. I dont think it registered with them at first because they were out of sight and sound of the boulder bounding its way down slope. "Rooockkkk" a second intense punctuated shout. A rock the size of a large bowling ball flew eye level past me just 5 feet to my right heading directly for Wesley. He registered the shout instantly and waited till the last second to see which way the beast was bouncing. The boulder now 1 second from inpact with his body, Wesley side steps and it lands a few inches from his foot. It continues toward Sabrina who is safely out of the beasts path.

I took a quick look at the rock step and realized it was all loose rock, unprotectable, dangerous.
After the message from the meandering boulder, we decide to turn back. The route was just not in good shape. If there was more snow we would make the summit in 5 hours from this point.

We are all down and safe and the mountain will be there next year with a route safe to travel. Love to all. Matt

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