September 27th second day of Kora

On day one September 26th, we had hiked 5 hours along the east face of Kailash.  It was astonishing how the trail was situated right at the base. The mountain rising from rubble to sky.  We worked our way around to the North face all the while kailash demanding respect.  I mentioned in a earlier blog that some pilgrims will prostrate around the whole mountain.  I was curious to see such a person.  This second day we were above 16,000 feet.  When we had arrived at camp the day before no one had the energy to walk across the river to the Diraphug Monastery,  the effects of altitude.  There was a wind that moved through every layer of clothing and through the body.   Respiration was heavy with the thin air and rigors of setting up 7 tents.  Our team worked well and soon we were tucked in for the evening, water boiling, snacks in hand, a darkening blue sky.  When we woke it was cold with a blanket of ice covering our tents.  If you have ever spent time in an icy tent you know the mornings are the toughest. Going from warm lofty down sleeping bag to the 33 degree weather outside is a battle of will.  Sometimes I will sleep in all my clothes just so they stay warm.  Putting on a cold pair of pants that you have been wearing for the past 7 days (with out a wash) can be daunting.  Someone had asked me on this day what was the longest I had gone without a shower and wearing the same clothes.  I answered with a smile "you don't want to know"  followed by quietly spoken "45 days".  Those of you climbing Shishapangma  (14th highest mountain in the world) with Four Winds in 2014 know what your in for.

We were on the trail early.  An hour into the hike I noticed 2 pilgrims rising and crouching then laying on the ground.  They were prostrating around Kailash.  As I approached I took the photos below.  I could feel there devotion.  I heard through the grape vine that it had taken this couple 5 days to do what we did in 5 hours.  It would take roughly 21 days to prostrate around Kailash.  Climbing Everest is like Disney Land compared to prostrating around Kailash.  As I approached the couple I was expecting tired haggard faces.  Eyes heavy and heart dusty.  I smiled at the woman as she turned my way.  She gave back a big smile with sparkling eyes and a hearty Tashidelek ( the Tibetan greeting).  She turned back to the trail in front and began her next prostration.

                            Tibetan Men starting the Kora

The Dream. Sept 26th

Beginning of the dream.  We were approaching Kailash and pilgrims began to appear.  Groups of Tibetans walking and laughing, some with a serious tone, others had young children on their back sleeping, young teenagers, elderly with canes,  women hand in hand, all gathered to walk the 36.5 mile kora on the slopes of Kailash.   We wanted to get out of the car.  I could see the trail and pilgrims but we were driving to meet our gear truck and the yaks that would be carrying our gear.  A group of Tibetans in traditional long coats,  one sleeve worn off the shoulder,  and felt hats caught my eye.   "Stop" I pointed with a rushed manner.  Our driver pulled over with a questioning look.  I said nothing and exited the vehicle before it came to a stop.  We were all excited.  Packs were pulled from the rear of the land cruiser, jackets put on,  laces adjusted, hats donned, cameras at the ready, smiles, big smiles.  We were psyched!  Months and Months of planning, flights, hotel arrangements, permits, VISA, embassy visits and here we stood.  Just 8 days before the journey there were rumors that the Chinese Government was going to close the border.  At this point there were 12 of us who had investments emotionally and financially so I ignored the rumors.  At 5 days before departure the rumor was becoming more of a reality and I decided to change the whole itinerary drastically.  With the help of Hira my agent in Kathmandu we completely revamped the itinerary so we could exit Tibet by October 1st, the rumored date of the border closure.  Regardless of all the obstacles we had arrived and now were walking.  At 15600 feet it took us a few minutes to get our trail legs back.  Kailash loomed above its shape emanating grace.  About 20 minutes into our pilgrimage we came to the yak loading area.  Commotion and dust surrounded our gear truck.  As I approached Govinda one of our cooks approached and started asking me which bags go.  "This one....... This one?......... This one?"  Our yak drivers,  2 Tibetan woman in beautiful bright pink traditional dress, looked on confused.  There were 12 duffle bags and tons of kitchen gear and tents.  We only had 6 yaks.  Each yak could take 2 duffles.  We could not take it all.  I started rifling through the kitchen gear.  I looked at Govinda and DB who was in the back of the truck unloading more gear.  "Leave it,  we leave all kitchen gear,  kitchen tent, utensils, stoves, karosene, leave it"  The cooks looked at me like I was crazy.  I continued.  "Govinda,  DB, you go as pilgrims this trip, no cooking."   They looked at me surprised.  Never have they done the Kora without having to work.  They had beaming smiles.  I had planned to go light for the kora.  We all would cook in our own tents and everyone packed dry food.  The cooks had not been told and now they were on the kora for the first time as pilgrims.  They excitedly threw all the kitchen gear into the back of the truck.  Yaks were loaded and last minute arrangements made for the truck to meet us on the other side of the mountain.   We posed for a group photo turned and began the Kora.  My assistant guide, Yubach, yelling from the back of the pack, "Every body readyyyyyyyyyy?".

Rush Hour Tibet

On the way to Kailash there were several "rush hour" periods where traffic was backed up.  Below is a photo of a typical rush hour.

Pictured below..... the Tibetan Porsche.  

September 25th - Rest Day?

This was our beautiful camp next to holy lake Manasarovar.  In the distance you can see Mt Kaiash.  On this day we would have a rest day.  The words "Rest Day" take on a new meaning at altitude.  Your body automatically adjust your respiration so you have more oxygen in your blood stream.  For example if at sea level you have a resting heart rate of 65 your heart rate at altitude will raise anywhere between 15 and 30 beats a minute at rest.  It is like you are on a slow jog 24 hours a day.  On most trips I lose anywhere from 5 to 12 pounds in 19 days.  This trip I lost 9 pounds.

Not only is your heart rate elevated but on rest days we have to adhere to an acclimatization regimen which consist of climbing high and sleeping low.  The photo below is on one of our "Rest Days".  We hiked 1000 feet above camp and then came back to camp to sleep low.  In this process our bodies start to acclimatize to the rarefied air.  Rest days at altitude?  Imagine a slow jog 24 hours a day 7 days a week for 15 days.

September 24th

Tibetan pilgrims would amaze me daily on this journey.  The photo above shows what they carry.  I had a chance to speak with the 3 pilgrims in the photo above.

 Looking toward the Chugu Monastery I saw in the distance pilgrims huddled around a small fire.  I believe they had carried small pieces of kindling as there is no wood to be found.   Though they probably needed every bit of food and drink they carried for their journey they were quick to offer tea. They had no shelter and their travel kit consisted of a small burlap sack (pictured left) and a white woven plastic sack( pictured middle), thats it.  As I approached, their smiles warmed me.   It was a stark contrast to our camp here next to the holy lake.  We had state of the art 4 season tents,  down sleeping bags rated to 15 degrees or warmer, and a truck to carry our gear and food.  Still we suffered and believe it is just a testament to how soft our spirits are becoming with all the material we have.  Really,  I probably would not last 3 days with what the Tibetans in this photo carried, yet there they were big smiles and laughter booming as they as they walked past our cozy lake camp.  I found out that they had already walked 5 days.  At this point I would guess they had another 5 days to make it around Kailash, then 5 days home.  All done with a burlap sack and a white woven plastic sack.   What were the contents?   I believe....... mostly strong, wild spirits.





This is a photo of the North side of Shishapangma, the 14th highest peak in the world.  In 2014 I will be leading a expedition on the South side of the mountain.  Email me if you would like to join this trip.

The pilgrims of Kailash that made the arduous journey.  We unofficially named ourselves the "Zum Zums"  a Sherpa phrase that means "lets go".  Holy lake Manasarovar in the back round.  

Kids in the Limi Valley of remote Western Nepal.  Most of the population are of Tibetan heritage.  We were able to get a permit to walk through the valley for 8 days to continue and finish our pilgrimage in Nepal.  Blogs about the Limi Valley will follow Tibet blogs.

I met a 72 year old Tibetan Pilgrim Named "Karma Sonam"  I will write about him in upcoming blogs. 

Tibetan Pilgrim on day one of the Kora.  He spins a prayer wheel.  On the inside of the wheel is a long scroll of prayer text.  

Sponsors and supporters

I want to take a moment to tell you about companies who gave graciously to help make this journey possible.

Zing Bar.  Thank you again John.  If you have not tried Zing bars you may want to.  They are designed by nutritionist, gluten free, and they were a great treat on our journey.

Flying Apron.  Oh my god!  The flying apron supplied what is called the "Peanut butter Joy".   These were outstanding when our taste buds were missing home.  Visit "Flying Apron" in Seattle for totally gluten free treats.  Than you!

Figure Four.  Hands down the best packs on the market for serious alpinist.  It was awesome to use the pack on the Kailash kora for its weight and durability.  Thank you Steve.

Black Diamond Tents.  We used the black diamond stormtrac 4 season tents.  Once you learn how to set them up they are roomy and light and provided a secure get away from all conditions.  Definitely a must have tent.

Thank you to all.   Matt

Tibet September 23

Day 4 would be a long driving day.  The day made easier by the fact that we would see one of the holiest sights on earth, Mt Kailash and Lake Manasorovar.  The landscape changed several times already and now we are passing through high desert.  The colors here are a palette of sunset red, brick, lemon yellows, wheat grass, with splashes of green, outcrops of grey.  Again as in the past days I did not let sleep come while on the drive.  The anticipation of the first view of Kailash kept us looking off in the distance, over ridges, through valleys for just a glimpse of her slopes.  We asked are driver often "is that Kailash"  or " how much longer".

 Mt Kailash holds the designation of being one of the holiest sights on earth that is the least visited.  The latter being true because of the raw nature of the location.  The Tibetan plateau sits above 14,000 feet.   The base of Kailash is at 15,600 feet.  The actual pilgrimage takes place in this high altitude arena to altitudes above 18,000 feet.  It is a true adventure and the pilgrim has to acclimatize properly before attempting the Kora (pilgrimage).  This is not a place for ignorance.  The combination of altitude, cold, sleeping in tents at these elevations,  and of course permit issues make it the least visited but probably the most coveted holy sights on earth.  It is like Mecca or Jerusalem but unlike these sees only 2000 visitors a year.

Situated in far Western Tibet it is also hard to get to and Chinese regulation make it impossible to do on your own, literally impossible.  One of the newest regulation being that you must have at least 5 in your group with 4 of those being of the same nationality.  This is just one hurdle of a myriad of regulation.   (If you want to do this trip hire "Four Winds" we will get you there and out).

Now just hours away, breathing the rarefied air,  and running the gauntlet of bureaucracy,  I and I am sure all in the group felt privileged just to glimpse her slopes.  It is a lifetime goal of every Tibetan Buddhist, and Hindu, to walk the Kora.  Tibetans will walk the plateau for days with only a blanket, and water container to do the pilgrimage of suffering.  The devotion of the Tibetans is made up of surrender, sacrifice, suffering, and runs high.  It is not uncommon to see pilgrims prostrating the whole distance of the Kora.   A pilgrim would bend to his/her knees, lay on his stomach, stretch his leathery hands as far in front of him as possible, rise to his feet, take one step, and repeat.  I questioned weather there was any devotion greater than this and wondered if I would see such raw devotion on the Kora.

In the distance the road emptied into a valley.  To the left sparkling brilliant light reflected off of a large body of water.  Yes lake Manasarovar the holy lake.  I knew Kailash would be west of here and my eyes scanned excitedly.  There standing alone amongst the rolling brown hills stood a sentenel.  Bright white snows with a soft pallor, a summit touching heavens doors, Mt Kailash!  The occupants of the land cruiser grew excited then silent.  We were viewing something extraordinary.  As if entering a church we spoke very few words, the benevolent was present.

We turned south onto a dirt road.  We would be camping next to the Chugu monastery, a place where very few others get to camp, on the shores of Manasarovar.  Here we would spend 2 more days acclimatizing in the church of Kailash.