The Dream. Sept 26th

Beginning of the dream.  We were approaching Kailash and pilgrims began to appear.  Groups of Tibetans walking and laughing, some with a serious tone, others had young children on their back sleeping, young teenagers, elderly with canes,  women hand in hand, all gathered to walk the 36.5 mile kora on the slopes of Kailash.   We wanted to get out of the car.  I could see the trail and pilgrims but we were driving to meet our gear truck and the yaks that would be carrying our gear.  A group of Tibetans in traditional long coats,  one sleeve worn off the shoulder,  and felt hats caught my eye.   "Stop" I pointed with a rushed manner.  Our driver pulled over with a questioning look.  I said nothing and exited the vehicle before it came to a stop.  We were all excited.  Packs were pulled from the rear of the land cruiser, jackets put on,  laces adjusted, hats donned, cameras at the ready, smiles, big smiles.  We were psyched!  Months and Months of planning, flights, hotel arrangements, permits, VISA, embassy visits and here we stood.  Just 8 days before the journey there were rumors that the Chinese Government was going to close the border.  At this point there were 12 of us who had investments emotionally and financially so I ignored the rumors.  At 5 days before departure the rumor was becoming more of a reality and I decided to change the whole itinerary drastically.  With the help of Hira my agent in Kathmandu we completely revamped the itinerary so we could exit Tibet by October 1st, the rumored date of the border closure.  Regardless of all the obstacles we had arrived and now were walking.  At 15600 feet it took us a few minutes to get our trail legs back.  Kailash loomed above its shape emanating grace.  About 20 minutes into our pilgrimage we came to the yak loading area.  Commotion and dust surrounded our gear truck.  As I approached Govinda one of our cooks approached and started asking me which bags go.  "This one....... This one?......... This one?"  Our yak drivers,  2 Tibetan woman in beautiful bright pink traditional dress, looked on confused.  There were 12 duffle bags and tons of kitchen gear and tents.  We only had 6 yaks.  Each yak could take 2 duffles.  We could not take it all.  I started rifling through the kitchen gear.  I looked at Govinda and DB who was in the back of the truck unloading more gear.  "Leave it,  we leave all kitchen gear,  kitchen tent, utensils, stoves, karosene, leave it"  The cooks looked at me like I was crazy.  I continued.  "Govinda,  DB, you go as pilgrims this trip, no cooking."   They looked at me surprised.  Never have they done the Kora without having to work.  They had beaming smiles.  I had planned to go light for the kora.  We all would cook in our own tents and everyone packed dry food.  The cooks had not been told and now they were on the kora for the first time as pilgrims.  They excitedly threw all the kitchen gear into the back of the truck.  Yaks were loaded and last minute arrangements made for the truck to meet us on the other side of the mountain.   We posed for a group photo turned and began the Kora.  My assistant guide, Yubach, yelling from the back of the pack, "Every body readyyyyyyyyyy?".