September 27th second day of Kora

On day one September 26th, we had hiked 5 hours along the east face of Kailash.  It was astonishing how the trail was situated right at the base. The mountain rising from rubble to sky.  We worked our way around to the North face all the while kailash demanding respect.  I mentioned in a earlier blog that some pilgrims will prostrate around the whole mountain.  I was curious to see such a person.  This second day we were above 16,000 feet.  When we had arrived at camp the day before no one had the energy to walk across the river to the Diraphug Monastery,  the effects of altitude.  There was a wind that moved through every layer of clothing and through the body.   Respiration was heavy with the thin air and rigors of setting up 7 tents.  Our team worked well and soon we were tucked in for the evening, water boiling, snacks in hand, a darkening blue sky.  When we woke it was cold with a blanket of ice covering our tents.  If you have ever spent time in an icy tent you know the mornings are the toughest. Going from warm lofty down sleeping bag to the 33 degree weather outside is a battle of will.  Sometimes I will sleep in all my clothes just so they stay warm.  Putting on a cold pair of pants that you have been wearing for the past 7 days (with out a wash) can be daunting.  Someone had asked me on this day what was the longest I had gone without a shower and wearing the same clothes.  I answered with a smile "you don't want to know"  followed by quietly spoken "45 days".  Those of you climbing Shishapangma  (14th highest mountain in the world) with Four Winds in 2014 know what your in for.

We were on the trail early.  An hour into the hike I noticed 2 pilgrims rising and crouching then laying on the ground.  They were prostrating around Kailash.  As I approached I took the photos below.  I could feel there devotion.  I heard through the grape vine that it had taken this couple 5 days to do what we did in 5 hours.  It would take roughly 21 days to prostrate around Kailash.  Climbing Everest is like Disney Land compared to prostrating around Kailash.  As I approached the couple I was expecting tired haggard faces.  Eyes heavy and heart dusty.  I smiled at the woman as she turned my way.  She gave back a big smile with sparkling eyes and a hearty Tashidelek ( the Tibetan greeting).  She turned back to the trail in front and began her next prostration.

                            Tibetan Men starting the Kora