Four Winds Himalayan Guide Service-Since 1995

Sunday, April 28, 2013

Base Camp and Sherpa crew

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We are a day away from Base camp.  The trekking group just departed down into thicker air.  What an outstanding group and trip.  We were ab...
Friday, April 26, 2013

first view

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We have arrived at Gokyo 15600 feet.  Everyone is doing well after a bout of sicknesses.  The weather is very unsettled in the Khumbu with ...
Monday, April 22, 2013

Light and fast Alpine Climbing

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Our climbing hardware gear list for our Kangchung expedition: 6 Black Diamond Express ice screws 3 pitons 1 set nuts 1 50 meter 8 mm r...

old school

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"I ski in these gloves" was his first response when I crinkled my brow. He held out his gloved covered hands.  These are not just...

All is well

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We have just reached Namche and finalized our climbing permit.  Everyone is doing well just the usual khumbu valley sicknesses, soar throat...
Wednesday, April 17, 2013

Uncanny Elizabeth Holly

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There has been one person who as kept track of every expedition since 1963 in the Nepal Himalaya.  Now in her 80s Elizabeth Holly has inter...
Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Lighten your load

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I am always astonished to see climbers on a 2 day climb of Mt Rainier carrying 50 pound packs. It is uncalled for and outdated.  For a 3 d...
Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Kangchung East Expedition

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Packing for an expedition is a bitter sweet action.  On Friday I depart for my 20th expedition. Our journey is to Kangchung East.  A p...
Thursday, March 14, 2013

Friendly Chinese Soldier

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We were driven from the main paved road to a dirt road strewn with garbage.  At the next turn we entered a gravel parking lot surrounded by...
Monday, February 11, 2013

Shisha Pangma Expediton 2014

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Hello Climbers, If you ever have wanted to climb an 8000 meter peak here is your chance.  We will be leading a trip to Shishapangma the 14...
Saturday, February 2, 2013

book excerpt

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 I went through 5 years of fighting for my life.  You can read my profile for a brief description of the ordeal by scrolling down.  As so...
Friday, January 25, 2013

Karma Sonam and the Kora

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"Karmaaaaa Sonaaaaam."........ A deep voice yelled out, the sound dissipated amongst ancient mountain walls.  The old man approac...
Wednesday, January 9, 2013

September 28th continued

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After shouldering the pack I had one more trick up my sleeve to help get this pilgrim over the pass.  I was going to save it for the last 1...
Sunday, December 16, 2012

September 28th

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Morning 6:30am, tents broken down and gear being loaded on Yaks.  We circled up so I could brief everyone.  The first thing I said in that ...
Monday, December 3, 2012

September 28th

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5am.  Cold with a light wind brushing over an ice covered tent.  I got out of my bag to wake everyone.  It was about 25 degrees.  More star...
Friday, November 23, 2012

September 27th second day of Kora

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On day one September 26th, we had hiked 5 hours along the east face of Kailash.  It was astonishing how the trail was situated right at ...
Saturday, November 17, 2012

The Dream. Sept 26th

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Beginning of the dream.  We were approaching Kailash and pilgrims began to appear.  Groups of Tibetans walking and laughing, some with a ...
Monday, November 12, 2012

Rush Hour Tibet

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On the way to Kailash there were several "rush hour" periods where traffic was backed up.  Below is a photo of a typical...

September 25th - Rest Day?

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This was our beautiful camp next to holy lake Manasarovar.  In the distance you can see Mt Kaiash.  On this day we would have a rest day. ...
Wednesday, November 7, 2012

September 24th

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Tibetan pilgrims would amaze me daily on this journey.  The photo above shows what they carry.  I had a chance to speak with the 3 ...
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Matt Fioretti

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himalaya high
Seattle, Washington, United States
Matt Fioretti has been guiding climbing expeditions and leading treks in the Nepal Himalaya for 20 years. April of 2014 he completed his 34th season. In August of 2004 Matt would embark on one of the hardest climbs of his life with little chance of survival. He was diagnosed with Aplastic Anemia a rare bone marrow disorder. For well over a year Matt was in the death zone with blood levels as low as 30% of normal. After a year of struggle he finally accepted taking the only and highly dangerous route of a bone marrow transplant. On October 4 of 2005 he received the marrow of a non related donor, kind of like mixing water and oil and hoping at some point they blend. After 28 rounds of Chemo, 87 blood transfusions, full body radiation and 3 years of toil he reached the summit, surviving what would be the hardest climb of his life to date. Matt's favorite quote after the experience, "Remember to intentionally tweak your world once in awhile, get out of your comfort zone, it is here where the most growth occurs. Full on security is the denial of life". Matt has led 20 successful climbing expeditions in the Himalaya. Join one of his trips for an experience of a lifetime.
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